Oddities

Rishikesh:



1) I bought some bananas and oranges from a stall, cost 40 Rs. I gave him 100 Rs, and he didn’t have change. He walked over to one of the beggars sitting on the steps nearby to get change.
2) We happen to have a television in our hotel room. I woke up yesterday around 7 am to watch the last two periods of the Canada U.S. Olympic hockey game (we lost!). Watching the Vancouver Olympics in Rishikesh!
3) I am starting to recognize some of the cows.
4) Lakshman Jhula is a beautiful hanging footbridge that takes you from the west bank to the east bank of the Ganges. It is about 2 metres wide, and can get crowded with people coming and going. And with motorcycles, freely wandering cows and monkeys trying to get through!

5) We go most mornings for Satsang with Prem Baba, a guru who is from Brazil, speaks Portuguese with English translation, and who also incorporates Brazilian Shamanic traditions in his teachings.

What a world! What a life!

Yoga

I missed a Yoga class this morning, so I decided to practice on my own, on the roof our hotel, overlooking the Ganges (not too hard to take!). I realize how much my Yoga practice is deepening since I have been in India. And Yoga is not only asanas (postures) and stretching. For me, Yoga is breathing, chanting, meditation, selfless service, purification, contemplation, concentration, stretching, and more! So it is life changing for me.

Ever since our time in Kochi where I did daily classes with Yoga Master Sajee, I feel different. First of all, I feel my body is more open and relaxed. I can stretch more than ever and do some difficult positions with ease and relaxation. My breathing is also more open, I am more conscious of my breathing. The chanting I have been doing is sticking in my mind. With no instruments available for me to play, I find myself singing the chants we repeated for many minutes. Also some Hebrew melodies come into my head. I sat at a beautiful spot on the Ganges by some rapids, and started singing some of my own songs. Meditation is easier, and happens during the regular day, much of the time.

Of course, I still lose it! There have been some crazy moments here, and it's not all bliss and grooviness. But overall, the effect on me has been powerful and positive. I am opening up to life, my heart is open, and I believe that if I follow my heart, my highest intuition, my highest self, I will find the best path for me to pursue in my life at this time. I am still concerned about making money, working, dealing with all the ups and downs of life in Canada, and I am hoping I can maintain this clearer space, with work and concentration of course, when we return in March.

Life is wonderful, there is so much love, I am so thankful for my life. I am so thankful for this adventure with my wonderful partner Amy, and for the growth we are both experiencing, together and separately. As Prem Baba said: "God comes to you when you are alone. God is in the silence, the solitude. And relationships are the university of life". Amen! Swaha!

The Jam

One evening after yoga (and dinner!) our teacher Sajee invited some of his musical friends over “to jam”. I didn’t know what to expect. Earlier, Sajee presented me with his daughter’s violin and asked me to change the strings so I could play it. It was a ¾ size fiddle, with a bow that may never have touched rosin. The men came with harmonium, tabla, some wooden flutes and beautiful voices. After an initial “tune-up” improvisation I played in D minor, one man informed me that they would play a raga in C# minor. Now C# minor is very difficult for me to play on the fiddle, so I kind of droned along. After the first raga was finished, he said that for South Indian music, C# is the most natural key, and they mostly play black notes on the harmonium, not white. He suggested I tune the fiddle down a half step so I could play in my more natural D scale. That made a huge difference. Next he schooled me in the raga form, showing me the scale of each raga, having me repeat after him. Then he would say: “This is the BG so now go ahead!” as if I had a clue what “BG” meant. After a while I gathered that BG signifies the main them of the raga, and is used to introduce the melody on a melody instrument – fiddle, harmonium, flute, etc.

Well it’s a good thing I know my scales a little bit as I was slowly able to catch on with his prodding as to when I was supposed to “fly”, and I was for the most part able to stay with the scale without too many flubs. I did the best I could, and they applauded my efforts.

I started the evening facing the other musicians across the circle. After the first few they beckoned me to sit in the middle of their group. And so it went. I could follow pretty well for the most part, and it was great fun.

There I was playing a squeaky ¾ size child’s violin with no rosin on the bow, trying to keep up to these guys, for whom these strange snaking melodies are simple as breathing! What a learning experience!

I’m sure glad I had a fiddle to play – definitely the right instrument to attempt ragas in that gathering!

I remember someone asking me if I planned to study Indian music during our time here. It hadn’t really occurred to me, and I think I answered that I would probably be more involved in Western music, with some exposure to Indian music as well. Well, I did learn a lot about Indian music and the raga form.

The picture below is also from that night, Alycia our Yoga buddy and “adopted” daughter from Vancouver, Amy and Sajee the Yoga Master.

Rishikesh

The north is very different, and Rishikesh is amazing. A friend told us we had to go to Rishikesh, it is “the Jerusalem of India”. Now I can see what she meant, though for me, it reminds me more of Tzfat. It is absolutely beautiful, surrounded by high green hills, and divided by the flowing green waters of the Ganges, the holiest river in India. And because it is near the source of the river, the Himalaya mountains, it is clean and clear – good healing water. Rishikesh is a dichotomy, with literally hundreds of temples, ashrams and Yoga and Meditation centres. It attracts spiritual seekers from all over India and the world. And so, it also attracts a Disneyland of commercialization. Can you imagine? The Ashram Store, The Third Eye Café (sounds appetizing), shops and kiosks wall to wall, “sadhus” grabbing you to apply a coloured bindi to your forehead before asking for 100 Rupees. Fake Yogis, dozens of sadhus begging at every temple. Rishiskesh is a trip.

I love it here, and could easily spend longer than the few days to a week we have. Yesterday we met our first guru in India, Prem Baba, who delivered a beautiful satsang in Portuguese with an English translator. He is from Brazil, and combines Brazilian Shamanic traditions with Hindu practice. His energy was absolutely beautiful, his smile was completely open, and I really got a buzz from him and from the energy of the people who came to see him. There were at least ten people playing instruments and chanting, people dancing, just a ton of good energy. We’ll go again this morning.

We also had a good yoga class at an ashram near the hotel where we are staying. There are many ashram possibilities and we are considering spending three days in one.

Rishikesh is a very holy city, a power spot. Last night we attended Ganga Arti, which is a nightly ceremony on the banks of the Ganges. About ten people lead prayers and chants amplified for everyone around to hear. Then, candles and lamps are lit, and many are set afloat on the Ganges as the ceremony ends. It reminded me of the Jewish Tashlich ceremony during High Holidays where we cast bread crumbs into the river to release our sins. Beautiful.

The food is all vegetarian, and delicious! There is no alcohol here. There is no western music anywhere. I met a musician from Italy and we are trying to find a way to jam together, but many ashrams and gathering places are not open to anything but sacred music.

Today we are going with a Spanish woman we met yesterday and an Indian man she knows to experience Kumbh Mela in Haridwar, about 30 kms away. Kumbh Mela happens every four years in different holy spots, and this year it is in Haridwar. Over a million pilgrims come at some point between mid January and mid April. Today is a special day, with bathing in the Ganges the main focus. It will be a mob scene, but since we happen to be here at this time, I really want to experience it at least for the day. Then we’ll escape back to the relative quiet of Rishikesh.

Ashram Experience

Amy and I rented a motorcycle (Royal Enfield) to be exact for 400 Rs/day (about $10). We traveled 3 1/2 hours to Neyyar Dam from Varkala, avoiding buses rickshaws potholes and animals along the way. We planned to spend two nights at the Sivananda Yoga Ashram, since we had to get back to Varkala to catch an early train three days later.

When we arrived, we were informed that the minimum stay is three nights, so we had to pay for three nights. There was a lot of paperwork, including pages of policies, procedures and rules that put me off. Nevertheless we had gone to a lot of trouble and effort to get there, so we signed on.

The Ashram is beautiful, next to a fresh water reservoir (hence Neyyar Dam), surrounded by lush hills. There is an Lion Safari Park across the lake, and as we did our yoga class on a pad by the lake we could hear the lions calling. The day is quite full and busy, wake up at 5:30, Meditation and Chanting and Satsang from 6-7:30, then tea, then yoga from 8 - 10 am, then brunch in a dining hall, sitting on the floor and eating satvic vegetarian food with our right hand. After brunch comes Karma Yoga (Selfless Service), where we volunteer to do chores - I helped sweep and wash the floors of the dining hall. A little free time - we went swimming. Then a lecture on Yoga from 2-3:30 pm, another Yoga class from 3:30 - 5:30. Dinner at 6, Satsang, Meditation and Chanting 8 - 9:30, lights out at 10.


I was starting to get into the swing of things, the Yoga was great, it was wonderful to chant and meditate with hundreds of people. There were things I loved, and there were things I had problems with. For one thing, I am not a Hindu, and there is a ton of Hindu practice going on, including prostrations to various deities, as well as to people who are either teachers or sadhus at the Ashram. Not for me. And the restrictions on coming and going were also a problem. We had to fill out paperwork and get an "Out Pass" before the security guard at the gate would let us out. We were not allowed to leaved Satsang in the middle, had to stay till the end, and so on.

What was great was doing Yoga so intensively, and by Yoga I mean practicing the eight limbs, not just physical. There is a strong spiritual element and a lot of focus on mind control. And though I was unfamiliar and even a little uncomfortable with all the Sanskrit chanting, I have been chanting to myself ever since we left - a real earworm. "Om Namo Bhagavate Vasudevaya..." So it's powerful stuff!

We got a good taste, not sure if I would return, but we will have an opportunity to visit several ashrams here in Rishikesh to check them out. I understand that some allow you to come and go as you please, and to participate as you wish. Still rules of conduct I am sure, but that will likely work better for me.

So yes, we have left the south of India, which was not easy! I love the south of India. We took a rickshaw to a train to a rickshaw to a plane to a rickshaw to an overnight train to Haridwar to a rickshaw to Rishikesh! 27 hours total. It is Kumbh Mela time in this region, and a million pilgrims are expected in Hardiwar. Thousands of large tents set up in camps as we drove through this morning, the largest religious festival in the world which happens every four years. This year it's Hardiwar. It was cold here this morning, but now it's sunny and warm. We are recuperating today, catching up, and checking out the sites of Rishikesh.

Stay tuned...

More to come...

Varkala

Arrived in Varkala. From place to place everything is arranged. Our host Matthew in Allepei calls his friend with a Home Stay in Varkala, he’s full, but his neighbour has room, 500 Rs with balcony, bathroom, overlooking quite Odayam Beach to the north of the tourist strip of Varkala Beach. So we have a place to stay before we arrive, the rickshaw drive wants 80 Rs, should be 60 but whatever… Sunil our host at Sona Home Stay greets us and shows us a beautiful rook overlooking the beach. He offers coffee tea, small breakfast, water, and helps us with anything we need. Really nice person. Everyone is nice!

The over-riding feeling is how good the people are. Total strangers smile with a warmth and friendliness that is genuine. And time and time again, people are completely honest in their dealings with us (except maybe that rickshaw driver, but 80 Rupees is $2 for God’s sake!), and sincerely wanting to help us however they can.

There is a richness in the culture of India that is evident as you walk around, almost everywhere we have been so far. It is infused with spirit, with regular open displays of prayer, outdoor temples, great churches and cathedrals, mosques, everywhere. The call to prayer is broadcast everywhere, even at 4:30 in the morning. Today on our balcony I listened to the Imam deliver his Friday sermon which went on for at least 45 minutes – in Malayalam of course. I wish I could understand Malayalam. I really want to know what he was saying. At one point he reached a crescendo as he thundered home the most important message to the faithful (and me). It was a little like an Evangelical preacher going wild.

Anyhow it’s over now. All quiet on the southern point of India, on the Arabian Sea.

Kumily

Kumily is a little town in the mountains about 6 hours east of Cochin. There are three places here all together – Kumily, where most of the home stays and restaurants are, Periyar National Park which is over 700 sq. kms. of nature reserve, and Thekkady where the entrance to the park is and where there are elephant centres. It is a very beautiful and peaceful place. We are staying at the Rainbow Cottage which is Home Stay painted in gaudy rainbow colours, quite luxurious really, with a big nice bed, private bath with hot shower, satellite TV, with a “Homely Cooking” café that provides food, coffee and so on, and an Internet Café. Cost per night – 500 Rupees (around $12). We can sit on the roof and watch the sunset and the nightly migration of thousands of fruit bats, coming from the forest and heading who knows where. We can see the bustle of activity around the village, while sitting in a very peaceful spot. The air is clear and not humid, it is cool at night, and really pleasant.

That being said, there are several things about this place that are a little annoying. It is kind of a tourist trap. You can go for an elephant ride for 300 Rupees for a half hour and have your photo taken riding the elephant (see below), or for 750 Rupees you can also help bathe the elephants. It seems a little contrived, and it’s hard to really relate to these huge, beautiful animals. I felt a little ripped off.

Today we went on an early morning three hour trek into the park to see animals. It was difficult, lots of heavy climbing, and we were exhausted by the end of it. We saw some black monkeys in the trees, lots of birds and insects, and piles of elephant shit and black bear shit. No other animals though. Cost – 900 Rupees for two people. Again, I felt a little ripped off. Still it was a beautiful jungle walk, and a gorgeous spot, especially at the top of the mountain (see below). Both Amy and I feel the vibes here are a little less honest and sincere than Cochin for example.

So we will spend the day relaxing, maybe an outing to tea and spice plantations, then tomorrow head out to Kottayam for the backwater cruise. Stay tuned!

Chauvinism

I am still working on reducing my prejudices and chauvinism. I have had this concept that we in the western world are more advanced than those in “developing” countries. I suppose there is truth in that in some respects. Still, it is amazing to be on this bus driving through the hills through towns and villages and seeing signs like “Computer Training – MCSE, CCSP, C, C++, Java, PHP”, or “Fatima Centre for Spinal Cord Regeneration”, Universities, Science Centres, Research Centres for Eco-Farming, Eye Care Hospitals. Everywhere!

I wanted to replace my prescription eyeglasses that I lost (that’s another story!). I went to an Eye Clinic in Mattancharry, and had an examination by a woman eye doctor. She was very pleasant, professional, and obviously well trained. The exam was very similar to the ones I have at my eye doctor in Toronto, though there was no computerized equipment. She tried various lenses manually until I could read the chart most clearly, and like my doctor in Toronto, she notices a yellowing of the lens indicating the start of early cataracts. I received a prescription for correcting my near-sightedness and astigmatism. The cost – 150 Rupees ($6.00!). I ordered medium quality attractive frames and good lenses with anti-scratch coating, cost – 6080 Rupees, about $150, and they are just fine!

Of course it’s not all the same here. One gentleman suggested that Fort Cochin would not be a good place to have a sudden illness emergency. He said you wouldn’t want to visit the local hospital, so you would need an ambulance to take you across two bridges to the hospital in Ernakulam. Apparently there is no medical care in the ambulance; it’s basically a taxi with a bed. So about an hour later with no medical help you might get to the decent hospital. I guess it’s good to avoid medical emergencies in many places in India.

Kumily

Kumily is a little town in the mountains about 6 hours east of Cochin. There are three places here all together – Kumily, where most of the home stays and restaurants are, Periyar National Park which is over 700 sq. kms. of nature reserve, and Thekkady where the entrance to the park is and where there are elephant centres. It is a very beautiful and peaceful place. We are staying at the Rainbow Cottage which is Home Stay painted in gaudy rainbow colours, quite luxurious really, with a big nice bed, private bath with hot shower, satellite TV, with a “Homely Cooking” café that provides food, coffee and so on, and an Internet Café. Cost per night – 500 Rupees (around $12). We can sit on the roof and watch the sunset and the nightly migration of thousands of fruit bats, coming from the forest and heading who knows where. We can see the bustle of activity around the village, while sitting in a very peaceful spot. The air is clear and not humid, it is cool at night, and really pleasant.

That being said, there are several things about this place that are a little annoying. It is kind of a tourist trap. You can go for an elephant ride for 300 Rupees for a half hour and have your photo taken riding the elephant (see below), or for 750 Rupees you can also help bathe the elephants. It seems a little contrived, and it’s hard to really relate to these huge, beautiful animals. I felt a little ripped off.

Today we went on an early morning three hour trek into the park to see animals. It was difficult, lots of heavy climbing, and we were exhausted by the end of it. We saw some black monkeys in the trees, lots of birds and insects, and piles of elephant shit and black bear shit. No other animals though. Cost – 900 Rupees for two people. Again, I felt a little ripped off. Still it was a beautiful jungle walk, and a gorgeous spot, especially at the top of the mountain (see below). Both Amy and I feel the vibes here are a little less honest and sincere than Cochin for example.

So we will spend the day relaxing, maybe an outing to tea and spice plantations, then tomorrow head out to Kottayam for the backwater cruise. Stay tuned!

The Jam

One evening after yoga (and dinner!) our teacher Sajee invited some of his musical friends over “to jam”. I didn’t know what to expect. Earlier, Sajee presented me with his daughter’s violin and asked me to change the strings so I could play it. It was a ¾ size fiddle, with a bow that may never have touched rosin. The men came with harmonium, tabla, some wooden flutes and beautiful voices. After an initial “tune-up” improvisation I played in D minor, one man informed me that they would play a raga in C# minor. Now C# minor is very difficult for me to play on the fiddle, so I kind of droned along. After the first raga was finished, he said that for South Indian music, C# is the most natural key, and they mostly play black notes on the harmonium, not white. He suggested I tune the fiddle down a half step so I could play in my more natural D scale. That made a huge difference. Next he schooled me in the raga form, showing me the scale of each raga, having me repeat after him. Then he would say: “This is the BG so now go ahead!” as if I had a clue what “BG” meant. After a while I gathered that BG signifies the main them of the raga, and is used to introduce the melody on a melody instrument – fiddle, harmonium, flute, etc.

Well it’s a good thing I know my scales a little bit as I was slowly able to catch on with his prodding as to when I was supposed to “fly”, and I was for the most part able to stay with the scale without too many flubs. I did the best I could, and they applauded my efforts.

I started the evening facing the other musicians across the circle. After the first few they beckoned me to sit in the middle of their group. And so it went. I could follow pretty well for the most part, and it was great fun.



There I was playing a squeaky ¾ size child’s violin with no rosin on the bow, trying to keep up to these guys, for whom these strange snaking melodies are simple as breathing! What a learning experience!

I’m sure glad I had a fiddle to play – definitely the right instrument to attempt ragas in that gathering!

I remember someone asking me if I planned to study Indian music during our time here. It hadn’t really occurred to me, and I think I answered that I would probably be more involved in Western music, with some exposure to Indian music as well. Well, I did learn a lot about Indian music and the raga form.

The picture below is also from that night, Alycia our Yoga buddy and “adopted” daughter from Vancouver, Amy and Sajee the Yoga Master.

Still in Kochi (Cochin)

We thought we would stay three four days, and here we are staying for a week! It's such a great place to be, it's hard to leave!

Today we visited the Paradesi Synagogue in Jew Town (really!), built in 1656 and still active as a museum and as a synagogue with services Friday night and Saturday and holidays. Only 5 families remain, apparently elderly, so they don't always have a minyan. Orthodox, women upstairs, the whole bit. Don't know if we will stay to partake, but seeing the Synagogue was great.

We have daily yoga classes with Sajee. He is bending me in all directions, beyond what I think I can do! Gentle, wise, emphasizing the spiritual life and aspect of yoga, which I love! Three hour classes daily - who knew I would want to do that? Then dinner together, satvic vegetarian food, delicious and home cooked! What an experience this has been!


I plan to go for a second Ayurvedic massage before we head onwards. The first one was wonderful, full body with warm oils, long strokes, not too much deep work, though he used his fingernails on points on the soles of my feet which was very intense! And some work on my right leg, thigh and calf was also painful. Then 15 minutes of steam in a steambox. The treatment was about an hour and a quarter, and cost 800 Rs (about $20).

Amy and I have bicycles rented for 50 Rs a day, and it's a great way to get around, though it's a little hairy with the drivers sometimes! Careful careful...

We saw a concert of classical South Indian music, with Vina (ancestor of the sitar) and Tabla. Amazing players, and sometimes both Amy and I thought the Vina player was rocking out! A bit of Clapton, Hendrix, others...great!


I am so impressed with the people here. Cochin is known for its diversity and tolerance, with over 30 religions and cultures peacefully coexisting for a long long time. Though of course they keep trying to sell you stuff, and will try to get as much as they can, overall, almost everyone is very honest, friendly, open to help, and just plain wonderful! Story: I went on an errand to pay for two more days of Amy's bike rental. I paid the wrong place! 100 Rupees for two days. This morning I went back, and before I said a word, the man said: "There's a mistake, I counted the bikes and your bike was not from here." And he handed me the 100 Rupees. I didn't ask. I said to him: "You know this place is so great, most people are completely honest. I trusted you last night with 100 Rupees to give to your brother, and I trusted you would return it today, and I was right to trust you. Thank you!"

Onwards and upwards.