Fort Cochin Sunday

Fort Cochin is a beautiful little town on the shores of the Arabian Sea in Kerala. It is part of the larger Cochin, which includes the bustling Ernakulum (over 1 million people), Mattanchary which has spice and other markets and which includes Jew Town, the old Jewish Quarter from the 1500’s. There is an ancient synagogue there that we will have yet to visit.

We arrived by rickshaw, and our driver didn’t know his way around Fort Cochin, so he stopped at a rickshaw stand and asked another driver for directions. The other driver was Shameer, born and raised in Fort Cochin, and he proceeded to jump in and offer to help us find a place to stay. He took us to Daffodil Home Stay, a beautiful home with six rooms on the second floor set up as guest lodging. I think it is the most beautiful accommodation we have had so far, though very pricey (almost $20 a night!) It’s a large spotless room with a big comfortable bed, chest of drawers, bedside tables, nice bathroom with shower, screens on some of the windows, and a big ceiling fan. Luxurious! Of course, there are rooms with A/C but they are much more expensive (maybe $30 a night). Shameer was wonderful, and wouldn’t accept any money though he helped us for almost an hour. Instead, he offered his services as a guide the next day, and we happily agreed. His charge – 50 rupees an hour ($1.25).

Yesterday we went to Mattanchary with Shameer. First we visited a large Jain Temple, where we sat and watched a group of Jain “tourists” from Bombay offering prayers and song. It was a beautiful space, with a huge birdhouse outside the main temple. One of the central tenets of Jainism is non-violence and protection of all living things, including insects (I couldn’t do it, too many mosquitoes here). So the birds really like it there.

He took us to the big spice market, the wholesalers who distribute around the world. There were whole yards filled with ginger drying in the sun, cloves, cardamom, anise, cinnamon, Ayurvedic herbs, tree barks, pepper black and white, teas and more. It was a huge space filled to the rafters by hand, no forklifts or other machinery other than scales. We also visited an essential oils shop across the road and purchased a little bottle of Kerala flower oil. Then we were off to the Portuguese Museum. Fort Cochin was colonized by the Portuguese in the 15th century, later by the Dutch, then the British. There are elements of all three cultures, along with the indigenous Indian Keralan culture, which is very rich.

We watched a performance of Kathakali, which is a combination of dance, music and mime, dramatizing the stories of Ram, Krishna and so on. The makeup takes over an hour to put on, and the skill of the performers is amazing. The wiggle of an eyebrow indicates an emotion; the hands are used as a form of sign language. The music consists of drummers, hand cymbals, harmonium drone and a singer who narrates the story. Fascinating.

We have been in three states in India (not including our first night in Bombay). Each one has its own language, culture and foods. They all share commonalities, including incredible open friendly curiosity and welcome. Yesterday at sunset I walked alone to the beach area bustling with activity, then around the main road by the water. I got lost, and people helped me get back to the area I was looking for. A young boy walked with me asking in halting English where I was from and whether there was cricket there (the important stuff). People are so nice! Of course they will try to get money from you, rupees are very hard for them to come by, but once you negotiate, they accept your offer and are most happy to help. I have felt so comfortable here, so little fear, it is really a wonderful place to be.



We have decided to stay at least three or four more days, as Amy continues Ayurvedic treatments and we continue with daily Yoga sessions. We found a Yoga Master here named Sajee, really amazing, three hour classes combining Hatha Yoga, meditation, pranayama, and Satsang.

On Om Beach, Gokarna, India

Another perspective: it’s amazing how much garbage is everywhere, plastic bottles in big piles on the beach and in the woods, butts and wrappers and papers and wire and other plastic all over the place. Nobody thinks about picking it up at all. I don’t know if there is a landfill or recycling depot being used at all, but it sure doesn’t look like it.

There are so many poor people all over India. For 50 Rupees each (just over a dollar), a few workers could easily clean up the whole area. I just don’t understand why it’s acceptable to dump garbage everywhere! Perhaps they would just take it all to one spot and dump it there. Instant landfill.

Anyhow I was happy to see a group of people yesterday wearing gloves and picking up garbage off the beach. Don’t know who they were or if they were being paid, but I was very heartened to see at least an awareness of the importance of cleaning up!

And that is not to mention the cows and dogs and water buffalo and chickens that wander freely. While they also add to the pollution with their shit, they eat a lot of garbage too, especially the pigs. I must say I haven’t seen pigs or monkeys since we arrived here at Gokarna. But the animals and the people really coexist everywhere. A cow will come over to our blanket on the beach, seeking gifts (food I guess). The dogs too, quite aggressive in a friendly way. A young cow was particularly interested in Amy (picture attached), and was difficult to dissuade. Cute and obnoxious at the same time. Anyhow, after a while he moved on. The water buffalo stream through in the morning and back in the evening, sleek and somewhat moose-like in their faces, very beautiful.

Major problems I see in India – there are two that really stick out: poverty and pollution.

Major attributes: lots! Beauty, warm spirit, yoga, healing, meditation, nature. Then there’s excellent food and drink, entertainment and lots of travellers to meet and talk with. Some stay for weeks or months in a beach town, hanging out meeting others from around the world, exploring the area and chilling. Don’t know how long I could last in a place like this, probably a few days is enough. I could see spending longer in Hampi though. We didn’t get to visit the amazing caves with ancient art painted and inlaid into the rock. The whole cave world around Hampi is a highlight we will have to see next visit (God willing!).

This afternoon we are on to our next adventure: sleeper train south to Kochin, Kerala. Our Kerala time begins. Looking forward to backwaters, Ayurvedic treatments, Amma’s Ashram, elephants and nature reserve time, and even more beaches! And I understand the food in Kerala is spectacular.

Till next time!

On the Beach - Om Beach, Gokarna, India

Another perspective: it’s amazing how much garbage is everywhere, plastic bottles in big piles on the beach and in the woods, butts and wrappers and papers and wire and other plastic all over the place. Nobody thinks about picking it up at all. I don’t know if there is a landfill or recycling depot being used at all, but it sure doesn’t look like it.

There are so many poor people all over India. For 50 Rupees each (just over a dollar), a few workers could easily clean up the whole area. I just don’t understand why it’s acceptable to dump garbage everywhere! Perhaps they would just take it all to one spot and dump it there. Instant landfill.

Anyhow I was happy to see a group of people yesterday wearing gloves and picking up garbage off the beach. Don’t know who they were or if they were being paid, but I was very heartened to see at least an awareness of the importance of cleaning up!

And that is not to mention the cows and dogs and water buffalo and chickens that wander freely. While they also add to the pollution with their shit, they eat a lot of garbage too, especially the pigs. I must say I haven’t seen pigs or monkeys since we arrived here at Gokarna. But the animals and the people really coexist everywhere. A cow will come over to our blanket on the beach, seeking gifts (food I guess). The dogs too, quite aggressive in a friendly way. A young cow was particularly interested in Amy (picture attached), and was difficult to dissuade. Cute and obnoxious at the same time. Anyhow, after a while he moved on. The water buffalo stream through in the morning and back in the evening, sleek and somewhat moose-like in their faces, very beautiful.

Major problems I see in India – there are two that really stick out: poverty and pollution.

Major attributes: lots! Beauty, warm spirit, yoga, healing, meditation, nature. Then there’s excellent food and drink, entertainment and lots of travellers to meet and talk with. Some stay for weeks or months in a beach town, hanging out meeting others from around the world, exploring the area and chilling. Don’t know how long I could last in a place like this, probably a few days is enough. I could see spending longer in Hampi though. We didn’t get to visit the amazing caves with ancient art painted and inlaid into the rock. The whole cave world around Hampi is a highlight we will have to see next visit (God willing!).

This afternoon we are on to our next adventure: sleeper train south to Kochin, Kerala. Our Kerala time begins. Looking forward to backwaters, Ayurvedic treatments, Amma’s Ashram, elephants and nature reserve time, and even more beaches! And I understand the food in Kerala is spectacular.

Till next time!

Goa to Hampi - an Indian adventure!

So when you drive up Hwy 400 towards Barrie, sometimes the traffic slows to a stop, you sit for a couple of minutes, crawl for an hour, then suddenly it's all clear! Why is that? There's no accident, construction or anything else - what a pain, right?

So here's the Indian version: We leave Aramol by local bus around 3 pm, takes an hour or so to get to Mapusa, a bustling town where we catch the overnight sleeper to Hampi bus leaving at 6 pm. The bus arrives, with double bunks throughout, really pretty comfortable. Amy and I settle into the top bunk, and our friend Leita takes the bottom. We begin...

Sometime after Margao, we notice a ton of trucks lined up on the other side of the road. By ton, I mean thousands and thousands! I thought they were parked for the night, and that was kind of true. A few minutes later, we stopped. A half hour later I went outside and saw that traffic was completely jammed in both directions. It is after midnight now. The driver goes to sleep. I realize that every vehicle in both directions is occupied. After about an hour, a man with a stick (!) comes down the line of traffic hitting each vehicle and calling out to wake up the drivers. We start moving. Okay then. About 100 metres further, we stop. Driver goes to sleep. Nobody knows why. An hour later, the man with the stick wakes us to move forward another 100 metres. This goes on ALL NIGHT! I imagine that between midnight and 7 am we travelled maybe a couple of kilometres. Then at a certain point, traffic starts moving and we are on our way. Our 12 hour bus ride was supposed to arrive at Hampi at 6 am, and actually arrived at 7 pm. 25 hours!

There is no logic, there is no point in trying to understand or change it, we must just flow with it! The good news is it was quite comfortable, and we were all able to sleep at least several hours. And I read and listened to music, read the Times of India, looked out at the varying landscape. As we pass through every town, people call out to us, wave and smile. We are really something weird and wonderful in those buses!

Last day in Arambol

So it's Monday Jan 18, we've been in Arambol since Wed. night, and it's time for our trip into "the real India". And even though Arambol is more world travellers than Indians, it has been a fantastic five days of decompressing, getting over jet lag, hanging out with our friend Leita, and finding our way around this cool little beach town.

Today we walked around past the end of this beach, past beautiful rock formations to the next beach to the north. And right beside that beach is a little sweet water lake, so we camped out under a palm branch and swam in the lake and rested and read and talked and ate and drank, avocado and cheese and tomatoes and onion and bread and passion fruit and beer and... Definitely not at all hard to take.

We will take some new friends out to dinner tonight, they have been welcoming and hospitable to us. There is live music and Italian food waiting.

Tomorrow we take a bus to Margao, then an overnight "sleeper" bus with beds to Hampi, which is inland the next state south of Goa, Karnataka. There are amazing ruins and rock formations there, and it's supposed to be fantastic. I'll let you know...

We are realizing that travel time and distances are long and far in India, and we have to stay aware of not trying to cover too many places, or else we could get really run down. So slowly gradually we are heading south towards Kerala and more adventures.

Arambol is a little bit strange, with a real scene of travellers and "expats" who spend six months a year here, some since the 60's. There's one dude who sings at the jam night at Loekie's where I have played twice who is almost 80, has been here since the sixties, and sings songs like "Love Life" and "Love is a Gift" and so on with a little button accordion. He gets everyone going... I ran into him just now on the path to this Internet Cafe, and we hugged and shared appreciations for each other's gifts. Very cool...

There is a strong Yoga, Meditation, Ayurveda and healing arts focus. Also lots of drinking and charra smoking and general carousing. Some of it is genuine, some not so much. We met a beautiful Indian yoga instructor named Balu, who was definitely a wonderful and humble teacher. We see other people dressed like ninja gurus, looking like they are on the hunt. Sweet and gentle locals, and others that scowl and pester and hawk stuff you don't want at you repeatedly on the beach. If I wanted a taxi I would ask for one!

The roads are shared with Brahma cows, some pigs and dogs, walkers bikes scooters motorcycles cars vans trucks autorickshaws and buses, all trying to squeeze into the same two inches. Rules are nothing, horns are everything!

So many experiences already, and we are just beginning!

Second India Post

We are starting to settle into the scene at Arambol a little. Our friend Leita is a great person to hang with, and she has spent four winters in the area and around India, so she knows what’s going on, and has been very helpful with advice and tips and tricks. So far everything has been pretty smooth, sleep is a little uneven, but we can nap if we want so it’s not too hard to take.

Today is Friday, and through Dylan, the owner of the best coffee shop in town, we heard about a Jewish community right here in Arambol. Bretzlav Jews from Israel have established a “Bait Yehudi” right off the main strip, and so we dropped by to say hello yesterday, and were immediately invited for Kabbalat Shabbat this evening. Apparently they play lots of music (not on Shabbat, only voices) and are very joyful so we are looking forward to spending our first Shabbat evening with them.

Besides that, we are trying to decide how long to stay here and possible next moves. We could easily hang here for a week, not too hard to take at all, but I think Leita has a little adventure in mind, so we shall see.

So far no real health issues (knock on wood!), though I do get some sniffles periodically, not sure why, it’s not a cold. Stomach is fine so far (knock on wood!), being very careful with water. The food is excellent here, and it’s even okay to have salads and tomatoes and such in some of the restaurants. This place really caters to the “tourists”, though some of those tourists have been here for thirty years! Last night there was a jam at a restaurant, and one of the performers is almost eighty and has been here since the 60’s. He played a little accordion and sang some “hippy” songs “Live Life” was one, a little cheesy but at the same time pretty cool. The lineup was a real mixture of folky players, then one crazy guy dressed like Elvis who did a medley including Tobacco Road, In a Gadda Da Vida (!), People are Strange, Light My Fire, and on and on (get the hook!). There was a swing band with an Armenian, a Ukrainian and a German violinist. There was a French “dude” (his words) who kind of barged on stage and wanked for a while, so it was a real mix. I played three guitar songs early, and people sang along and were very appreciative. A lively crowd for sure!

Amy’s off to an Ashtanga Yoga class this morning, which is a little too strenuous for me, so I will walk the beach, get a little organized, and meet her and Leita at Dylan’s around 11 am.

This is such a great place to land, unwind and get used to being in India. It’s kind of in between the “real” India and a beach hangout that really could be anywhere – reminds me of Santa Theresa in Costa Rica, places in Mexico, and so on. The waters are warm, the beach is beautiful and sandy, the weather is great, and I just feel very fortunate and blessed to be able to be here. I highly recommend it!

When you think about it, if you could save up a few thousand dollars, you could easily spend a winter here, no problem. It’s not so hard to take! And especially if you are interested in Yoga, Meditation, Healing Arts, Ayurveda, music, art, etc., it’s a great place to be!

1st post from India!

Well, here we are! Amy and flew from Toronto to Brussels, Brussels to Mumbai. Left Toronto at 6:25 pm arrived in Mumbai next day at 11:30 pm! Stayed near the airport at the Iskcon Guest House - address Hare Krishna Land (really!) - Juhu. Juhu is a suburb of Mumbai, and the guest house was very nice, hot shower, etc. We walked around the area in the morning, tried to get my Blackberry unlocked so we could put a SIM card in it (unsuccesful) and experienced the autorickshaw driving in Mumbai traffic! Unbelievable - lanes? Traffic lights? No matter!
Anyhow we survived, and got back to the airport in time to fly to Goa, taxi to Arambol beach, found a nice guest house for $10 a night, near our friend Leita's. Spent today with Leita, walking around the town, learning the ropes, getting over some jet lag. Hatha Yoga class at 4 pm, visited the beach for sunset, then played an open stage at a restaurant. It's 11:30 here, and time for bed.
First impressions? It's a wonderful place here, most people are incredibly sweet, and so far everything has gone smoothly (well almost everything). We have a cell phone now, and are sending out the number to our kids so they can be in touch. Tomorrow is another day! I will have more time and energy to write another time. Good night!

Amy and Paul's Big Adventure!

So today we leave to visit "Grandmother" India! We will be traveling and living for two months there, exploring culture, history, Ayurveda, Yoga, Meditation, music, friends, ashrams, and more. It's been overwhelming getting ready, and I feel a combination of elation, excitement, nervousness and anticipation. Here we go!

We had a fine going away gig on Saturday evening at The Annex Live, with Shira, Richard Keelan, Joey Goldstein and Derek Downham. A nice turnout of family and friends (thank you for you support), and a great evening of music! Good way to celebrate the start of a new journey.

I will try to blog periodically as we go along, and Amy has her blog too: http://amyblock-livingintentionally.blogspot.com/.

So take care friends, be well, and we will be in touch!

~Paul