I am reflecting on my experience in Guatemala, as our time winds down here. I feel a deep connection to this place, especially El Lago Atitlan. Not only is it one of the most beautiful places I have been in the world, there is a powerful spiritual energy I feel here, combining the power of the lake and volcanoes with the spirit of the indigenous peoples who have lived here for thousands of years. Their energy, their connection to the land is amazingly open and friendly, considering the incredible hardships they have endured.
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| The waterfalls at Tzununa |
There are so many extremes.
Nature itself is friend and enemy, with wild swings of conditions
depending on seasons and natural occurrences.
We traveled north of Nebaj, in the north western highlands, and passed
through river gorges that were running with small rivers. The gorges themselves were very wide and
deep, and we understand that last rainy season, the gorges overflowed with
torrents of water, washing away bridges, land, homes and even people and
animals. There are hurricanes, there are
earthquakes, there are volcanic eruptions.
Many roads are in a permanent state of disrepair, and travel is
difficult.
Then there are the people, who are also friends and
enemies. For centuries, there has been conflict
between the Mayan indigenous peoples and the “conquering” nations, first Spain,
then U.S. and its friends. In the 1500s,
the conquistadors wiped out thousands of Mayans, and worked at converting the
rest to Christianity. More recently, the
civil war of the 1980s and 90s wiped out by some accounts 350,000 Mayans,
mostly people who were completely innocent and uninvolved. This war was supported and funded by the
U.S., and there were many military coups and uprisings. As the Mayan peoples tried to resist the oppression
of the ruling Ladinos, they were brutally murdered, including
men women and children who were simply living in villages suspected of
harbouring resistance fighters. There
are so many stories of brutality and extreme actions by the military and
mercenary soldiers, it is amazing that the Mayan peoples have even survived,
let alone that they are open and welcoming to outsiders.
I believe that we gringos have actually contributed a lot to
the awareness and appreciation of the Mayan people. Many initiatives in indigenous communities
have been started by or supported by people from outside of Guatemala. There are many schools, collectives, farms,
and other establishments that would not exist without sponsorship from the
U.S., Canada, and other countries. The
Guatemalan government does not do much to support these ventures. There is such a small tax base that there is
little to no funding available, even for schools, roads, and
infrastructure. Basically, people are
virtually on their own to support their own enterprises. And the indigenous people who have taken this
on are the ones who inspire the most hope and optimism for the future. There is still so much to do, so much to fix,
and on some levels things are really a mess.
But I see improvement for the most destitute and oppressed people, with
support from people like us.
This past week Amy and I traveled to a school north of Nebaj
in the Quiche region, near the Mexican border.
The school is called Neuvos Mayas, and was started 10 years ago by a
Mayan family. They lost parents,
siblings and other relatives and friends during the civil war, and had to flee
to the mountains to avoid being killed themselves. They are rebuilding their lives in the
region, focusing on their Mayan heritage and reaching out for support. There are over a hundred students, and about
a quarter of them live at the school.
The resilience of these people is extraordinary. The children of all ages are warm, friendly,
and joyful, and they are very enthusiastic about learning and participating in
our activities. One time Amy was in the
middle of a circle activity with a class of teens, and the time for recess
came. Amy asked if they wanted to
continue, and in unison they all shouted out “Si!”. Would that happen in Canada? I think not!
They are so appreciative and wonderful, it is an inspiration to me. And though the school lacks most basic
provisions (including trained teachers), once I let go of my “western” judgements
I realize that they are a hundred times better off here than they were before
the school existed. They are learning!
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| Student of Nuevos Mayas |
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| Yoga with Rosalie and Jacqueline - Neuvos Mayas |
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| Spontaneous affection - Nuevos Mayas |
On our way back to the lake we spent a night and morning in Chichicastenango, home to one the world's most amazing markets. Here are some photos of our experience:
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| Amy negotiates at the Chichi market |
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| Pig Market - Chichi |
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| Incredible textiles - Chichi |
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| My new "gorra" hat - Chichi |
And finally, after five days of sometimes gruelling travel, we are back on the lake. Ahhh... so beautiful and peaceful. So nice to be here, with the knowledge that less than two weeks from now, we will start our journey north, and eventually get back to Canada. I can't believe our time is almost over!
So the feelings are mixed, from the realization that things
are really backward and limited, to the acknowledgement of the joy, energy and
accomplishments of these amazing people.
I am so happy to have reconnected with this place after 37 years, and it
feels like yet another home for me. We
will be back I’m sure! There is more to
do here.
