Casa Hillel

Okay Casa Hillel.  It’s hard to describe, but it is wonderful to be there!

It starts with two people.  Both man and wife grow up in a Catholic environment, never feeling comfortable or at home with the Church.  They both were searching for a spiritual path that was real to them, and they discovered a deep resonance with progressive Judaism.  They began to reach out to see if there were others “out there” who felt the same way.  Eventually a Reform Rabbi from the United States contacted them and agreed to help them develop a Jewish life and community.  They began the conversion program with this man, and others came and sought conversion as well.  The community is made up of around thirty souls, twenty adults, and ten youngsters from two months to nineteen years old.

Los Ninos with Chanukah candles

The first thing that strikes me when I meet these people to welcome the Shabbat on Friday night, is the positive energy they exude.  The teenagers in particular are amazing, kissing the mezuzah with reverence as they enter the modest house that serves as synagogue, and participating with energy and enthusiasm in all the rituals, songs, games and learning.  We lit the Chanukah candles, sang songs together, some that we brought, some that they knew, including a couple of Ladino songs, and some we knew together.  Then we lit Shabbat candles, said some more prayers, a short kiddush, motzi and we sat down to a dinner all together.  Then more songs and games of dreydl all around.  There was one table of adults – at least 8 people – and a table of youngsters – around 10, all playing and laughing and enjoying the holiday and each other.  It was such a joy!

Shabbat Services

Amy sharing

These people have so little, and are so rich in spirit.  They struggle to be accepted by the mainstream Jewish community in Guatemala, with almost no success.  There are some members of those communities who are friends and who come, but they are shunned by most because they say they are not really Jewish, the conversion was not “real”, and so on.  They are in the process of reaching out to the Reform Jewish community of all of Latin America, and may soon become a recognized Reform congregation representing the Reform movement in Guatemala. 

They have a lot to learn.  We are starting to help teach them Hebrew, more prayers for Shabbat, Torah portions, and so on.  They are open and receptive, and have put together their own Siddur with Hebrew, Spanish and transliteration.  They are leading services every Shabbat morning, have a Torah, an ark and a Torah table.  We spent the whole day together on Shabbat, arriving around 10 am, and not leaving until after Havdalah and food around 9 pm.  Two month old Sarita is the centre of attention, and a baby-naming with “Rabina Elyse” is upcoming.  They adore Rabbi Elyse Goldstein and are so grateful for the way she has embraced them over the past six months.  And Ardany will celebrate his Bar Mitzvah in November 2012, and we are trying to help him prepare for that.

Havdalah

 

We are so thankful for the opportunity of experiencing this wonderful community, and look forward to spending more Shabbatot with them over the next couple of months.

Shabbat, Chanukah and Christmas in Guatemala City

We spent our Chanukah Shabbat (December 24) with the Casa Hillel community in Guatemala City.  I will share my experiences with them in another posting.  Being in Guatemala City is a trip!  It makes me aware of the different way of life that is here, especially in the city.  I think all over Latin America there is a feeling of extremes.  The poverty is pervasive and grinding, and leads to violence and criminal activity.  From what I hear, this happens all over Latin America, from Mexico through Central and South America.  Guatemala City is the epitome of that existence.

We stayed with a family in Zone 11, which is kind of suburban, and supposedly safer than other areas.  Still, the fortress mentality was evident everywhere.  There was a guard with a rifle waiting as we passed into the street near the house.  Many roads were fenced off.  The houses all had steel gates and fences with barbed wire above.  Every window had bars, especially on the ground floor.  There were virtually no cars parked on the street – they are kept behind the steel gates for safety.  Hardly anybody walks alone, groups are safer.  We were there for Christmas, and were basically told to stay indoors at night, since a lot of drinking makes it even more dangerous.  There were loud fireworks that went on for more than an hour and a half, from all over the city.  I am amazed that people here, who clearly are not wealthy, spend thousands of Quetzals (hundreds of dollars) on fireworks to “celebrate” Christmas.  We could hear them near us, could see some of the trails from our window, and remained indoors the whole time.  What a life!

There are many murders daily in Guatemala City.  Our host family is still mourning the loss of one of the sons, whose car was “car-jacked” a year ago.  They suppose he might have resisted the robbers, and they shot and killed him.  Another member of the Casa Hillel community came to the synagogue in a “vintage” Nissan car from the ‘80s, all banged up and barely running.  When he arrived, he opened the hood and removed a spark plug cable.  He was worried that the thieves would steal his car.  Another member had his car stolen from the same spot within the last few months.  Robbery is rampant, we are warned not to go out at night, not to wear jewellery, not to carry much cash, and most of all, not to resist if we are approached.  We are told to never use the regular public buses, or to walk alone anywhere.

Nevertheless, life goes on for several million residents, they walk the streets, take the buses, and carry on with life.  There are apparently wonderful museums, parks and other attractions in the city, lots of night life in Zona Viva and other places, and many people say the city is great.  I suppose they accept the constant danger with resignation and then carry on.  Some have no choice.

We were taken on a car tour by one of the Casa Hillel families, and traveled through many zones of the city.  There are historic areas with beautiful architecture, a palace, many churches and cathedrals.  We drove past some synagogues, which again are mostly hidden from view.  We were impressed however by a plaza dedicated to the State of Israel, which is clearly appreciated and supported by the government of Guatemala.  There is a huge Magen David (Star of David) inscribed with words of thanks for the State of Israel.  We are told that there is little or no anti-semitism.  Yet we are told the traditional Jewish community is very insular and exclusive, afraid of outside influences.

A place of paradoxes!  We spent a wonderful weekend with our new friends of Casa Hillel (more on this later), and when we returned to the lake, we breathed a huge sigh of relief.  It is so peaceful and beautiful on Lake Atitlan.  Yet even here, there is danger.  Robberies are frequent, especially on pay days and before Christmas with its associated pay bonuses.  Sometimes robberies turn violent, even in this very quiet and rural area.  So here, and I suspect in most parts of Latin America, life is cheap, poverty is grinding, and the danger is real.

So why come to a place like this?  Lake Atitlan is a magical, mystical power place that is so beautiful it takes my breath away several times a day.  99% of the people we have met are absolutely wonderful, welcoming, warm and friendly.  The indigenous community is incredible, and we are hoping to be exposed to the spiritual life and practices of the Mayan peoples as we spend more time here.  There is a feeling of power and peacefulness here on the lake, and the travelers and expats who spend time here share a common feeling of seeking peace and harmony and learning.  Overall it is an incredible place, and an incredible experience.  We just have to remember to take precautions and be smart.  Then, with luck and grace, all will continue to be well.

Chanukah on Lake Atitlan

Last night was the first candle-lighting of Chanukah.  Amy and I pondered how to honour the occasion, and realized that we had sent all the Chanukah materials to Casa Hillel in Guatemala City, and did not keep any for ourselves!  We thought about making a crude Chanukiyah from stone and beer bottle caps, and even picked up a couple of likely pieces of stone on our way into San Marcos for our first Spanish lesson.

Our teacher Andres (Andrew) is a 27 year old man from Brooklyn who has been living on the lake for about four months.  He is a professional teacher with a Masters degree in ESL, and is working and living in San Marcos, teaching, cooking, doing whatever to live and learn.  He is also Jewish.  As soon as we arrived at Hostalito Del Lago, the hostel where he lives, we saw a sign on the wall announcing Chanukah celebrations and candle-lighting that evening at Ganesh, a restaurant/performance space in San Marcos.  So after our Spanish lesson, we planned to head over to Ganesh.

Of course, Amy got right to work making latkes in the communal kitchen at Del Lago with Amir, an Israeli living there.  Here they are at work:

We headed over to Ganesh, latkes in hand.  Daisy was there, pulling together the Chanukah celebration.  She was thrilled to see us, and even more so the latkes!  The fact that Amy and I knew the prayers was a big help to her as well, and there were around a dozen Jewish people there among the 50 or so people.  They had made a Chanukiyah from a big flat rock, and had lined up eight candles in the front, with many other candles around.  During the blessings, Daisy lit the Shamash and first candle, and then invited anyone who wanted to to light a candle outside of the eight.  

We sang Chanukah songs, accompanied by Meaghan on the violin, ate latkes and sufganiyot (Guatemalan style – no jelly).  Then a lovely four piece acoustic band played a combination of western and Spanish music.  After eating a fabulous burrito and consuming several beers, we took a tuk-tuk home (scooter with seats, like the Indian rickshaw), since it was dark, and it was safer than walking home at night.

So we celebrated the first night of Chanukah in style, in San Marcos, Guatemala.  We also learned of other events and workshops happening in this area, which is known as the New Age Centre on the lake.  So today, before our Spanish lesson, we will attend a Chocolate Shaman ceremony, where pure chocolate is consumed and creates an environment for raising emotional awareness, under the guidance of Keith, the Shaman.  Should be very interesting, no?  And later on tonight there is a Winter Solstice fiesta happening at another hotel down the lake in Santa Cruz.  We will take a shuttle boat there around 7 pm, enjoy the celebration, and get a boat right to our dock at 10 or so.

It’s going to be another full day!  Here is sunrise at Pasaj-Cap.

Pasaj-Cap

We arrived on Lake Atitlan on Thursday night, after a 12 hour travel day by multiple shuttle vans from San Cristobal, Chiapas, Mexico, south to Guatemala, where we boarded another van that took us to kilometro 148 where we were met by another van to take us to San Marcos, Lake Atitlan, Guatemala.  Here is what our surroundings look like:

We are getting settled into our paradise spot here!  Surrounded by volcanoes, a beautiful lake with several Mayan villages around the shores, villagers speaking various indigenous languages (Kaqchikel, Tzotzil are two we have heard here).  People are generally extremely friendly and welcoming, and we are already having adventures, visiting Panajachel and San Pedro.  Yoga in the morning, excursions in the afternoons, making nice meals in our kitchen here, and generally feeling healthy and full.

We have a couple of volunteer projects we are involved with.  Next Friday we will travel to Guatemala City to stay with families of Casa Hillel, a Jewish community in the city.  I am not really excited about being in the city – I think it’s a bit of a hellhole – but we will “hide out” with the community we are staying with and I am sure it will be just fine!  This is a new Jewish community, native Guatemalans who sought out a religion for themselves, discovered Judaism, and were converted by a Reform Rabbi from the US.  They are just starting to learn Hebrew, customs, rituals, and prayer, and we are going to visit them for several Shabbatot to share whatever we know, as well as music for Chanukah and Shabbat and anything else.  I am excited to be with them, even if it is in Guatemala City.  It’s about a four hour trip from here, first a boat to Panajachel, then a shuttle van to the city, where our host family will pick us up.

Until then we will be around here, in this most awesome environment, chilling, exploring, doing a little work (Amy has a little remote work going on), taking Spanish lessons at a hostel in San Marcos, about a 20 minute walk from here, and experiencing life on Lake Atitlan.  We are so blessed!