Life in Cochin

We’ve been here over a week now, and we are settling into a bit of a routine.  Our time in Cochin is really focused on healing and Yoga, and that’s working for us.  I am feeling like my body is opening up again, after a long hiatus from Yoga.  I went for a couple of Ayurvedic treatments and they were much needed as well.

It’s different for me this time around.  Three years ago we came to India for the first time, and the culture shock was remarkable.  I remember one of my first taxi rides in Goa on a Saturday night, travelling to the next town for a little fair.  I thought we were going to die a dozen times on that ride, and our friends advised me to just close my eyes.  It was so shocking to see the way cars weaved in and out and around lanes, other vehicles, cows, bicycles, honking merrily every two seconds!  My blood pressure doubled!

Now, either the driving is different (not!) or it’s just what is normal for India.  We can be headed for a head-on crash, and I just know the driver will swerve in time or the other driver will slow down if necessary.  It’s like there is a code of conduct on the road.  Always honk to let others know you are there, feel free to weave however you like, and let others in if they are two inches from your bumper.  Virtually no road rage or impatience, everyone just knows that this is how it’s done.  And I am relaxed (most of the time!).

That’s just one example, but the reality is, India is comfortable for me now.  There is no culture shock.  I love the life here - though I wouldn’t want to live here permanently -  and the locals are much more than friendly.  People often ask if they can have a photo taken with us (we’re fresh monkeys after all), they introduce us to their families, invite us for tea, whatever.  The least friendly people here are westerners, though some are open and wonderful.  It’s just strange…

The only real discomfort for me is the heat.  Averaging well over 30 degrees Celsius every day, humid, lots of mosquitoes, I have taken to waking early and heading out before it gets too hot.  The nicest time to be out is between 6 and 10 am.  I change my shirt a few times a day, a shower or two every day, lots of wiping of sweat, and of course, the fan on full in our home stay room.  Fortunately, there are good screens on the windows of our room, so the mosquitoes aren’t bad where we sleep.

Paul and Sajee
 
Sajee is my Yoga teacher, and he is fabulous, as a teacher and as a friend.  On Sunday we went for two excursions, one with him and his daughter Vinaya to visit the beginning of the backwaters about a half hour away, and another to a bird sanctuary two hours away with Sajee and Ajee (Mom and Dad) and Vinaya (daughter) and Taku (son), all stuffed into their little car.  On the first trip we met a family at their home on the water.  It sounds exclusive – waterfront home – but believe me, it’s not!  A small building, very simple, and three families living together, at least 9 people.  It’s not their property, but they’ve lived there for 25 years.  There is no documentation of ownership, so they pay no rent.  Still, they are very poor.  The father offered to take us on a boat ride, so we piled in, Amy, me, Vinaya, and three little ones.  After Sajee told us he rented the boat from a neighbour just for us, since his boat was being repaired.  They have so little, but they give without hesitation.  Beautiful simple people, suffering deprivation and poverty, but shining inside, open and warm and welcoming.  This is India.  We will return to visit them again, and we will bring food for a feast to cook and share together.
 

The family

Paul Ajee Amy Taku and Vinaya

Our boat ride approaches