Shabbat, Chanukah and Christmas in Guatemala City

We spent our Chanukah Shabbat (December 24) with the Casa Hillel community in Guatemala City.  I will share my experiences with them in another posting.  Being in Guatemala City is a trip!  It makes me aware of the different way of life that is here, especially in the city.  I think all over Latin America there is a feeling of extremes.  The poverty is pervasive and grinding, and leads to violence and criminal activity.  From what I hear, this happens all over Latin America, from Mexico through Central and South America.  Guatemala City is the epitome of that existence.

We stayed with a family in Zone 11, which is kind of suburban, and supposedly safer than other areas.  Still, the fortress mentality was evident everywhere.  There was a guard with a rifle waiting as we passed into the street near the house.  Many roads were fenced off.  The houses all had steel gates and fences with barbed wire above.  Every window had bars, especially on the ground floor.  There were virtually no cars parked on the street – they are kept behind the steel gates for safety.  Hardly anybody walks alone, groups are safer.  We were there for Christmas, and were basically told to stay indoors at night, since a lot of drinking makes it even more dangerous.  There were loud fireworks that went on for more than an hour and a half, from all over the city.  I am amazed that people here, who clearly are not wealthy, spend thousands of Quetzals (hundreds of dollars) on fireworks to “celebrate” Christmas.  We could hear them near us, could see some of the trails from our window, and remained indoors the whole time.  What a life!

There are many murders daily in Guatemala City.  Our host family is still mourning the loss of one of the sons, whose car was “car-jacked” a year ago.  They suppose he might have resisted the robbers, and they shot and killed him.  Another member of the Casa Hillel community came to the synagogue in a “vintage” Nissan car from the ‘80s, all banged up and barely running.  When he arrived, he opened the hood and removed a spark plug cable.  He was worried that the thieves would steal his car.  Another member had his car stolen from the same spot within the last few months.  Robbery is rampant, we are warned not to go out at night, not to wear jewellery, not to carry much cash, and most of all, not to resist if we are approached.  We are told to never use the regular public buses, or to walk alone anywhere.

Nevertheless, life goes on for several million residents, they walk the streets, take the buses, and carry on with life.  There are apparently wonderful museums, parks and other attractions in the city, lots of night life in Zona Viva and other places, and many people say the city is great.  I suppose they accept the constant danger with resignation and then carry on.  Some have no choice.

We were taken on a car tour by one of the Casa Hillel families, and traveled through many zones of the city.  There are historic areas with beautiful architecture, a palace, many churches and cathedrals.  We drove past some synagogues, which again are mostly hidden from view.  We were impressed however by a plaza dedicated to the State of Israel, which is clearly appreciated and supported by the government of Guatemala.  There is a huge Magen David (Star of David) inscribed with words of thanks for the State of Israel.  We are told that there is little or no anti-semitism.  Yet we are told the traditional Jewish community is very insular and exclusive, afraid of outside influences.

A place of paradoxes!  We spent a wonderful weekend with our new friends of Casa Hillel (more on this later), and when we returned to the lake, we breathed a huge sigh of relief.  It is so peaceful and beautiful on Lake Atitlan.  Yet even here, there is danger.  Robberies are frequent, especially on pay days and before Christmas with its associated pay bonuses.  Sometimes robberies turn violent, even in this very quiet and rural area.  So here, and I suspect in most parts of Latin America, life is cheap, poverty is grinding, and the danger is real.

So why come to a place like this?  Lake Atitlan is a magical, mystical power place that is so beautiful it takes my breath away several times a day.  99% of the people we have met are absolutely wonderful, welcoming, warm and friendly.  The indigenous community is incredible, and we are hoping to be exposed to the spiritual life and practices of the Mayan peoples as we spend more time here.  There is a feeling of power and peacefulness here on the lake, and the travelers and expats who spend time here share a common feeling of seeking peace and harmony and learning.  Overall it is an incredible place, and an incredible experience.  We just have to remember to take precautions and be smart.  Then, with luck and grace, all will continue to be well.