Fort Cochin Sunday

Fort Cochin is a beautiful little town on the shores of the Arabian Sea in Kerala. It is part of the larger Cochin, which includes the bustling Ernakulum (over 1 million people), Mattanchary which has spice and other markets and which includes Jew Town, the old Jewish Quarter from the 1500’s. There is an ancient synagogue there that we will have yet to visit.

We arrived by rickshaw, and our driver didn’t know his way around Fort Cochin, so he stopped at a rickshaw stand and asked another driver for directions. The other driver was Shameer, born and raised in Fort Cochin, and he proceeded to jump in and offer to help us find a place to stay. He took us to Daffodil Home Stay, a beautiful home with six rooms on the second floor set up as guest lodging. I think it is the most beautiful accommodation we have had so far, though very pricey (almost $20 a night!) It’s a large spotless room with a big comfortable bed, chest of drawers, bedside tables, nice bathroom with shower, screens on some of the windows, and a big ceiling fan. Luxurious! Of course, there are rooms with A/C but they are much more expensive (maybe $30 a night). Shameer was wonderful, and wouldn’t accept any money though he helped us for almost an hour. Instead, he offered his services as a guide the next day, and we happily agreed. His charge – 50 rupees an hour ($1.25).

Yesterday we went to Mattanchary with Shameer. First we visited a large Jain Temple, where we sat and watched a group of Jain “tourists” from Bombay offering prayers and song. It was a beautiful space, with a huge birdhouse outside the main temple. One of the central tenets of Jainism is non-violence and protection of all living things, including insects (I couldn’t do it, too many mosquitoes here). So the birds really like it there.

He took us to the big spice market, the wholesalers who distribute around the world. There were whole yards filled with ginger drying in the sun, cloves, cardamom, anise, cinnamon, Ayurvedic herbs, tree barks, pepper black and white, teas and more. It was a huge space filled to the rafters by hand, no forklifts or other machinery other than scales. We also visited an essential oils shop across the road and purchased a little bottle of Kerala flower oil. Then we were off to the Portuguese Museum. Fort Cochin was colonized by the Portuguese in the 15th century, later by the Dutch, then the British. There are elements of all three cultures, along with the indigenous Indian Keralan culture, which is very rich.

We watched a performance of Kathakali, which is a combination of dance, music and mime, dramatizing the stories of Ram, Krishna and so on. The makeup takes over an hour to put on, and the skill of the performers is amazing. The wiggle of an eyebrow indicates an emotion; the hands are used as a form of sign language. The music consists of drummers, hand cymbals, harmonium drone and a singer who narrates the story. Fascinating.

We have been in three states in India (not including our first night in Bombay). Each one has its own language, culture and foods. They all share commonalities, including incredible open friendly curiosity and welcome. Yesterday at sunset I walked alone to the beach area bustling with activity, then around the main road by the water. I got lost, and people helped me get back to the area I was looking for. A young boy walked with me asking in halting English where I was from and whether there was cricket there (the important stuff). People are so nice! Of course they will try to get money from you, rupees are very hard for them to come by, but once you negotiate, they accept your offer and are most happy to help. I have felt so comfortable here, so little fear, it is really a wonderful place to be.



We have decided to stay at least three or four more days, as Amy continues Ayurvedic treatments and we continue with daily Yoga sessions. We found a Yoga Master here named Sajee, really amazing, three hour classes combining Hatha Yoga, meditation, pranayama, and Satsang.