Tiruvanammalai

Where to begin?  It’s been a while since I’ve posted a blog, because the Internet has been either absent or very intermittent.  We were spoiled in Kochi, with steady Internet at our homestay.  Since then, we were off the grid completely in Kodaikanal, even without cell reception for four days.  Then in Madurai, there was no wifi.  Now, here in Tiru, we have wi-fi in our room, sometimes, and we never know when it will work and when it won’t.  Frustrating, but I just have to let go.

Over the past week, there haven been so many adventures, I’ll never catch up.  So I will write about here, Tiruvanammalai, home to a magic mountain, Arunachal.  The road from Madurai to Tiru is very flat.  Then as we approach Tiru, the mountain Arunachal looms above the town, where legend says Shiva manifested.  Magic mountain, power spot, this place is a magnet for spiritual seekers from all over the world.  Here is where Sri Ramana Maharshi was drawn at 16 years old.  He spent many years living in and around a cave on the Arunachal mountain, silent, ascetic, meditating.  Years!  Then, responding to the urgings of many disciples, he came down and started to establish an ashram at the foot of the mountain, which is the main centre drawing people from all over the world, to meditate, pray, chant. The guru died in 1950, and his legacy lives on.  He spoke little, and when he did it was in simple language.  He didn’t talk philosophy or Bhagavadgita or Vedas.  He said: “Who am I?”  He taught people to seek the True Self within.  That is all.  He never sought disciples or followers, didn’t want to be called guru, he only wanted to life a simple, ascetic life.  To me, he was “the real thing”.

Arunachal from the bus stand in Tiru

The energy of the devotees is very intense, though I must say, most are absorbed in their own practice, and quite honestly, most are unfriendly, even miserable-looking.  I don’t quite get it.  “If you are doing so much spiritual work, why are you so miserable?” Amy says.  Still, I do sense a mystical energy here that affects me as well.

We have spent four days here in Tiru.  We climbed to the caves on Arunachal, sat and meditated with many devotees, and visited the ashram and heard wonderful chanting.  Still I didn’t feel very comfortable.  I wasn’t really “getting it”.

Kids near the ashram on the way up Arunachal

Then we went to visit a friend of Sajee’s.  Anand is from Kerala, he married a western woman named Gayathri and is raising two sons.  He came to live in Tiru five years ago and bought some land outside of town, facing the mountain.  He is gradually building an organic permaculture farm, growing many varieties of fruit trees, vegetables, with a cow.  He also built a simple “open studio” and several huts where people who are meant to come would stay for days or even months.  He and his family live a beautiful simple peaceful life.  Gayathri is a very accomplished visual artist and potter, and is preparing a gallery exhibition of her work for Kashi Café and Art Gallery in Kochi (we were there), and then another in Cuenca, Spain (we were there too many years ago!).

On the day we went to visit Anand we got up early and rode our bikes to the farm for 7 am Yoga with Krika, a visitor from Italy who is living there.  After, we sat with Anand for several hours, and I could have just stayed.  I felt so fulfilled, so peaceful, and was touched by the magic of Arunachal.  I felt Anand spoke to my soul.  He seemed to identify my particular mind-space at that moment, and I learned valuable lessons from him.  He spoke about just being, not doing.  Of course, he said, there is much to do, but once we let go of our need for ego gratification, our need to be recognized for our “achievements”, everything in life is a meditation.  “I could tie the cow to the post, instead I walk with the cow – cow meditation.  I could build an irrigation system, instead I carry small buckets of water and water the plants and trees by hand – water meditation.  I have no need to prove anything to anyone.  Here, I experienced ‘death’ and ‘annihilation’ of my ego self, and now I am only here with Arunachala, and I am very happy and peaceful.”

Sitting with Anand and Amy facing Arunachala, I got it completely.  I realized I could easily stay here for months.  We will return.

Temple Elephant in Tiru

Of course, as everywhere in India, there are many contradictions.  In town, big signs were posted all over announcing the death of a very important man.  Apparently two thousand people came to his funeral to pay their respect.  There were lots of fireworks, an elaborate procession with music.  It turns out (someone said) he was the biggest crime boss in the area!

Sadhus at the Temple

And there are so many miserable-looking western “seekers”, unfriendly, “self”-absorbed, no smiles, nothing.  Because of the very strong presence in Tiru, many local people have become jaded and also unfriendly.  For the first time ever in India, the host of our homestay was nasty, miserly and unkind. 

There are hundreds of people persistently begging all the time.  This is a town where there are many many ashrams offering free food to everyone daily.  One time Amy bought some chai for a woman begging, to avoid giving money.  She smiled gratefully, and after she drank the chai, she came back to Amy and asked for money again.  It never ends.

Tiru is a magic place, and like everywhere in India, is full of contradictions.  It’s everything!

Next stop, Pondicherry.