Guatemala Ponderings

So many things happen every week, it’s hard to focus on one or two things to write about.  Amy said: “Start with a feeling, and then the details will come from there.”  Good advice, I think.  I do that often with writing songs and music, since for me, most of what I create musically is about capturing and communicating a feeling.  So…

What am I feeling?

I feel truly blessed to have the opportunity of spending some months in this glorious place, outside of San Marcos, Lake Atitlan, Guatemala.  I was here in 1975, and coming back feels a little like coming home.  Much has changed, but the feeling of this place still connects with my heart.

After the hot springs near Antigua

First of all, it is stunningly beautiful.  Nature abounds, from the volcanoes that surround this magical lake, to the abundance of flowers, birds and butterflies that are all around us.  Then there is the magic of Maya, the indigenous people of Guatemala, who have been here for thousands of years, in spite of all attempts to conquer, annihilate and assimilate them into whatever culture was prevailing.  From the conquistadors from Spain in the 1500’s to the Ladino conquerors of the last 50 years or so, who set out to “cleanse” the population, resulting in the deaths or disappearances of by some accounts more than 350,000 Mayan people, men women and children.  Every town and village has stories to tell of relatives who were murdered or “disappeared” by the military or by mercenary squads.  And yet the Mayan culture still exists, and is becoming stronger.  Some people say that Santiago Atitlan, which we can see from our front porch across the lake, is the largest indigenous cities (population 32,000) in the Americas.  We have yet to visit there, but it is definitely on our list!

Fire Ceremony

So my feelings are mixed.  In the midst of extraordinary beauty and amazing sweetness of the Mayan people here, this place is truly f*&#ed up!  The poor people (mostly indigenous) are more than poor.  They are often hungry, the kids have no shoes, and they are often without parents.  Education is a very low priority, and boys may go to school for only a couple of years before they are needed to help pick coffee or work with the rest of the family.  The illiteracy rate is the second highest in the hemisphere, and though many outsiders (i.e. gringos) and local Mayan leaders are lending support to building new schools, buying shoes and backpacks for poor kids so they can be allowed to go to school, and convincing the parents that the kids have to go (and keep going) to school, the problem is immense.  And, what is most disconcerting, the government does not seem to have the resources or will to focus funding and emphasis on improving education.

Also, like many developing countries, Guatemala doesn’t deal with garbage or sewage with any kind of effectiveness.  I have heard that there was a sewage treatment plant in Panajachel, the tourist centre of the lake, and after the last hurricane in 2005, it was destroyed.  In six years, they have not managed to rebuild it, so “black water” is flowing freely into the lake.  With the tourism industry being one of the main sources of money in the country (after agriculture), one would think the government would be more interested in fixing such a serious problem.  But nothing seems to be happening.

I believe there is a lot of corruption here.  Of course, there is corruption everywhere, even in our beloved Canada.  But here it is flagrant, obvious, and accepted.  For some reason, the government finds funds to pave a section of road (only a section mind you) outside of San Marcos, and erect a giant gate with a sculpture of a lion on top.  Very nice very nice.  But the roads in town are unpaved, the schools are suffering, and people are starving.  Why the fancy gate?  I can’t help but think it can only be a power play, rewarding some crony with money.  There is money, but how is it spent?

There was an election this year, and the government is changing.  Or is it?  The new president was a former general implicated in the massacres during the Civil War years of the 80s and 90s.  He was also the architect of the Peace Treaty that ended the war, so he has done some good things related to reconciliation.  But no matter who is elected, it seems that it is more of the same, the same people representing the same interests.  Guatemala is controlled by a very small oligarchy, and no matter who is elected, it doesn’t seem to change much.

Where I do see change and hope is in the efforts of the indigenous peoples, aided by some of us “gringos” and a few ladinos, to rebuild the Mayan society, to celebrate the richness and sacred traditions of the Maya, and most of all, to connect with the natural world, and to repair, rebuild, and generate the seeds of holistic, natural life.  Lots of permaculture, organic growing operations, efforts to protect the heritage seeds of the indigenous people, especially from threats from without, including multi-nationals like Monsanto (can they really be as evil as they seem?).  These initiatives are truly positive and inspiring, and there is lots of it.

Tata Pedro

And lastly, it is important to remember that life is fragile, here and everywhere.  There are frequent earthquakes, hurricanes, and mudslides during the rainy seasons.  The water level of the lake is rising a lot, destroying property along the shores.  Pollution continues to plague the lake, though it is possible to swim where we are (at the moment).  And poverty and illiteracy are two huge problems that never seem to go away.  Robberies and violence are very common, especially in Guatemala city, but even here in this most peaceful and beautiful environment, we are told not to walk alone on the roads at night, not to hike unless we’re in a group, not to carry valuables, and so on.  So there is that edge of fear that also exists here. We have personally experienced only friendly beautiful people, and we have had no problems.  Yet we are mindful of the dangers of this place.

I love it here, I love being here, and I am learning and experiencing new things every day.  It is a kind of paradise, in a way, but as we spend more time here, we also know that there are many serious problems, and that in some ways things are not okay.  Still, our lives are blessed, and we are trying to take advantage of these opportunities as best we can.  Thanks to God for all You provide!