Varkala

Arrived in Varkala. From place to place everything is arranged. Our host Matthew in Allepei calls his friend with a Home Stay in Varkala, he’s full, but his neighbour has room, 500 Rs with balcony, bathroom, overlooking quite Odayam Beach to the north of the tourist strip of Varkala Beach. So we have a place to stay before we arrive, the rickshaw drive wants 80 Rs, should be 60 but whatever… Sunil our host at Sona Home Stay greets us and shows us a beautiful rook overlooking the beach. He offers coffee tea, small breakfast, water, and helps us with anything we need. Really nice person. Everyone is nice!

The over-riding feeling is how good the people are. Total strangers smile with a warmth and friendliness that is genuine. And time and time again, people are completely honest in their dealings with us (except maybe that rickshaw driver, but 80 Rupees is $2 for God’s sake!), and sincerely wanting to help us however they can.

There is a richness in the culture of India that is evident as you walk around, almost everywhere we have been so far. It is infused with spirit, with regular open displays of prayer, outdoor temples, great churches and cathedrals, mosques, everywhere. The call to prayer is broadcast everywhere, even at 4:30 in the morning. Today on our balcony I listened to the Imam deliver his Friday sermon which went on for at least 45 minutes – in Malayalam of course. I wish I could understand Malayalam. I really want to know what he was saying. At one point he reached a crescendo as he thundered home the most important message to the faithful (and me). It was a little like an Evangelical preacher going wild.

Anyhow it’s over now. All quiet on the southern point of India, on the Arabian Sea.

Kumily

Kumily is a little town in the mountains about 6 hours east of Cochin. There are three places here all together – Kumily, where most of the home stays and restaurants are, Periyar National Park which is over 700 sq. kms. of nature reserve, and Thekkady where the entrance to the park is and where there are elephant centres. It is a very beautiful and peaceful place. We are staying at the Rainbow Cottage which is Home Stay painted in gaudy rainbow colours, quite luxurious really, with a big nice bed, private bath with hot shower, satellite TV, with a “Homely Cooking” café that provides food, coffee and so on, and an Internet Café. Cost per night – 500 Rupees (around $12). We can sit on the roof and watch the sunset and the nightly migration of thousands of fruit bats, coming from the forest and heading who knows where. We can see the bustle of activity around the village, while sitting in a very peaceful spot. The air is clear and not humid, it is cool at night, and really pleasant.

That being said, there are several things about this place that are a little annoying. It is kind of a tourist trap. You can go for an elephant ride for 300 Rupees for a half hour and have your photo taken riding the elephant (see below), or for 750 Rupees you can also help bathe the elephants. It seems a little contrived, and it’s hard to really relate to these huge, beautiful animals. I felt a little ripped off.

Today we went on an early morning three hour trek into the park to see animals. It was difficult, lots of heavy climbing, and we were exhausted by the end of it. We saw some black monkeys in the trees, lots of birds and insects, and piles of elephant shit and black bear shit. No other animals though. Cost – 900 Rupees for two people. Again, I felt a little ripped off. Still it was a beautiful jungle walk, and a gorgeous spot, especially at the top of the mountain (see below). Both Amy and I feel the vibes here are a little less honest and sincere than Cochin for example.

So we will spend the day relaxing, maybe an outing to tea and spice plantations, then tomorrow head out to Kottayam for the backwater cruise. Stay tuned!

Chauvinism

I am still working on reducing my prejudices and chauvinism. I have had this concept that we in the western world are more advanced than those in “developing” countries. I suppose there is truth in that in some respects. Still, it is amazing to be on this bus driving through the hills through towns and villages and seeing signs like “Computer Training – MCSE, CCSP, C, C++, Java, PHP”, or “Fatima Centre for Spinal Cord Regeneration”, Universities, Science Centres, Research Centres for Eco-Farming, Eye Care Hospitals. Everywhere!

I wanted to replace my prescription eyeglasses that I lost (that’s another story!). I went to an Eye Clinic in Mattancharry, and had an examination by a woman eye doctor. She was very pleasant, professional, and obviously well trained. The exam was very similar to the ones I have at my eye doctor in Toronto, though there was no computerized equipment. She tried various lenses manually until I could read the chart most clearly, and like my doctor in Toronto, she notices a yellowing of the lens indicating the start of early cataracts. I received a prescription for correcting my near-sightedness and astigmatism. The cost – 150 Rupees ($6.00!). I ordered medium quality attractive frames and good lenses with anti-scratch coating, cost – 6080 Rupees, about $150, and they are just fine!

Of course it’s not all the same here. One gentleman suggested that Fort Cochin would not be a good place to have a sudden illness emergency. He said you wouldn’t want to visit the local hospital, so you would need an ambulance to take you across two bridges to the hospital in Ernakulam. Apparently there is no medical care in the ambulance; it’s basically a taxi with a bed. So about an hour later with no medical help you might get to the decent hospital. I guess it’s good to avoid medical emergencies in many places in India.

Kumily

Kumily is a little town in the mountains about 6 hours east of Cochin. There are three places here all together – Kumily, where most of the home stays and restaurants are, Periyar National Park which is over 700 sq. kms. of nature reserve, and Thekkady where the entrance to the park is and where there are elephant centres. It is a very beautiful and peaceful place. We are staying at the Rainbow Cottage which is Home Stay painted in gaudy rainbow colours, quite luxurious really, with a big nice bed, private bath with hot shower, satellite TV, with a “Homely Cooking” café that provides food, coffee and so on, and an Internet Café. Cost per night – 500 Rupees (around $12). We can sit on the roof and watch the sunset and the nightly migration of thousands of fruit bats, coming from the forest and heading who knows where. We can see the bustle of activity around the village, while sitting in a very peaceful spot. The air is clear and not humid, it is cool at night, and really pleasant.

That being said, there are several things about this place that are a little annoying. It is kind of a tourist trap. You can go for an elephant ride for 300 Rupees for a half hour and have your photo taken riding the elephant (see below), or for 750 Rupees you can also help bathe the elephants. It seems a little contrived, and it’s hard to really relate to these huge, beautiful animals. I felt a little ripped off.

Today we went on an early morning three hour trek into the park to see animals. It was difficult, lots of heavy climbing, and we were exhausted by the end of it. We saw some black monkeys in the trees, lots of birds and insects, and piles of elephant shit and black bear shit. No other animals though. Cost – 900 Rupees for two people. Again, I felt a little ripped off. Still it was a beautiful jungle walk, and a gorgeous spot, especially at the top of the mountain (see below). Both Amy and I feel the vibes here are a little less honest and sincere than Cochin for example.

So we will spend the day relaxing, maybe an outing to tea and spice plantations, then tomorrow head out to Kottayam for the backwater cruise. Stay tuned!

The Jam

One evening after yoga (and dinner!) our teacher Sajee invited some of his musical friends over “to jam”. I didn’t know what to expect. Earlier, Sajee presented me with his daughter’s violin and asked me to change the strings so I could play it. It was a ¾ size fiddle, with a bow that may never have touched rosin. The men came with harmonium, tabla, some wooden flutes and beautiful voices. After an initial “tune-up” improvisation I played in D minor, one man informed me that they would play a raga in C# minor. Now C# minor is very difficult for me to play on the fiddle, so I kind of droned along. After the first raga was finished, he said that for South Indian music, C# is the most natural key, and they mostly play black notes on the harmonium, not white. He suggested I tune the fiddle down a half step so I could play in my more natural D scale. That made a huge difference. Next he schooled me in the raga form, showing me the scale of each raga, having me repeat after him. Then he would say: “This is the BG so now go ahead!” as if I had a clue what “BG” meant. After a while I gathered that BG signifies the main them of the raga, and is used to introduce the melody on a melody instrument – fiddle, harmonium, flute, etc.

Well it’s a good thing I know my scales a little bit as I was slowly able to catch on with his prodding as to when I was supposed to “fly”, and I was for the most part able to stay with the scale without too many flubs. I did the best I could, and they applauded my efforts.

I started the evening facing the other musicians across the circle. After the first few they beckoned me to sit in the middle of their group. And so it went. I could follow pretty well for the most part, and it was great fun.



There I was playing a squeaky ¾ size child’s violin with no rosin on the bow, trying to keep up to these guys, for whom these strange snaking melodies are simple as breathing! What a learning experience!

I’m sure glad I had a fiddle to play – definitely the right instrument to attempt ragas in that gathering!

I remember someone asking me if I planned to study Indian music during our time here. It hadn’t really occurred to me, and I think I answered that I would probably be more involved in Western music, with some exposure to Indian music as well. Well, I did learn a lot about Indian music and the raga form.

The picture below is also from that night, Alycia our Yoga buddy and “adopted” daughter from Vancouver, Amy and Sajee the Yoga Master.

Still in Kochi (Cochin)

We thought we would stay three four days, and here we are staying for a week! It's such a great place to be, it's hard to leave!

Today we visited the Paradesi Synagogue in Jew Town (really!), built in 1656 and still active as a museum and as a synagogue with services Friday night and Saturday and holidays. Only 5 families remain, apparently elderly, so they don't always have a minyan. Orthodox, women upstairs, the whole bit. Don't know if we will stay to partake, but seeing the Synagogue was great.

We have daily yoga classes with Sajee. He is bending me in all directions, beyond what I think I can do! Gentle, wise, emphasizing the spiritual life and aspect of yoga, which I love! Three hour classes daily - who knew I would want to do that? Then dinner together, satvic vegetarian food, delicious and home cooked! What an experience this has been!


I plan to go for a second Ayurvedic massage before we head onwards. The first one was wonderful, full body with warm oils, long strokes, not too much deep work, though he used his fingernails on points on the soles of my feet which was very intense! And some work on my right leg, thigh and calf was also painful. Then 15 minutes of steam in a steambox. The treatment was about an hour and a quarter, and cost 800 Rs (about $20).

Amy and I have bicycles rented for 50 Rs a day, and it's a great way to get around, though it's a little hairy with the drivers sometimes! Careful careful...

We saw a concert of classical South Indian music, with Vina (ancestor of the sitar) and Tabla. Amazing players, and sometimes both Amy and I thought the Vina player was rocking out! A bit of Clapton, Hendrix, others...great!


I am so impressed with the people here. Cochin is known for its diversity and tolerance, with over 30 religions and cultures peacefully coexisting for a long long time. Though of course they keep trying to sell you stuff, and will try to get as much as they can, overall, almost everyone is very honest, friendly, open to help, and just plain wonderful! Story: I went on an errand to pay for two more days of Amy's bike rental. I paid the wrong place! 100 Rupees for two days. This morning I went back, and before I said a word, the man said: "There's a mistake, I counted the bikes and your bike was not from here." And he handed me the 100 Rupees. I didn't ask. I said to him: "You know this place is so great, most people are completely honest. I trusted you last night with 100 Rupees to give to your brother, and I trusted you would return it today, and I was right to trust you. Thank you!"

Onwards and upwards.

Fort Cochin Sunday

Fort Cochin is a beautiful little town on the shores of the Arabian Sea in Kerala. It is part of the larger Cochin, which includes the bustling Ernakulum (over 1 million people), Mattanchary which has spice and other markets and which includes Jew Town, the old Jewish Quarter from the 1500’s. There is an ancient synagogue there that we will have yet to visit.

We arrived by rickshaw, and our driver didn’t know his way around Fort Cochin, so he stopped at a rickshaw stand and asked another driver for directions. The other driver was Shameer, born and raised in Fort Cochin, and he proceeded to jump in and offer to help us find a place to stay. He took us to Daffodil Home Stay, a beautiful home with six rooms on the second floor set up as guest lodging. I think it is the most beautiful accommodation we have had so far, though very pricey (almost $20 a night!) It’s a large spotless room with a big comfortable bed, chest of drawers, bedside tables, nice bathroom with shower, screens on some of the windows, and a big ceiling fan. Luxurious! Of course, there are rooms with A/C but they are much more expensive (maybe $30 a night). Shameer was wonderful, and wouldn’t accept any money though he helped us for almost an hour. Instead, he offered his services as a guide the next day, and we happily agreed. His charge – 50 rupees an hour ($1.25).

Yesterday we went to Mattanchary with Shameer. First we visited a large Jain Temple, where we sat and watched a group of Jain “tourists” from Bombay offering prayers and song. It was a beautiful space, with a huge birdhouse outside the main temple. One of the central tenets of Jainism is non-violence and protection of all living things, including insects (I couldn’t do it, too many mosquitoes here). So the birds really like it there.

He took us to the big spice market, the wholesalers who distribute around the world. There were whole yards filled with ginger drying in the sun, cloves, cardamom, anise, cinnamon, Ayurvedic herbs, tree barks, pepper black and white, teas and more. It was a huge space filled to the rafters by hand, no forklifts or other machinery other than scales. We also visited an essential oils shop across the road and purchased a little bottle of Kerala flower oil. Then we were off to the Portuguese Museum. Fort Cochin was colonized by the Portuguese in the 15th century, later by the Dutch, then the British. There are elements of all three cultures, along with the indigenous Indian Keralan culture, which is very rich.

We watched a performance of Kathakali, which is a combination of dance, music and mime, dramatizing the stories of Ram, Krishna and so on. The makeup takes over an hour to put on, and the skill of the performers is amazing. The wiggle of an eyebrow indicates an emotion; the hands are used as a form of sign language. The music consists of drummers, hand cymbals, harmonium drone and a singer who narrates the story. Fascinating.

We have been in three states in India (not including our first night in Bombay). Each one has its own language, culture and foods. They all share commonalities, including incredible open friendly curiosity and welcome. Yesterday at sunset I walked alone to the beach area bustling with activity, then around the main road by the water. I got lost, and people helped me get back to the area I was looking for. A young boy walked with me asking in halting English where I was from and whether there was cricket there (the important stuff). People are so nice! Of course they will try to get money from you, rupees are very hard for them to come by, but once you negotiate, they accept your offer and are most happy to help. I have felt so comfortable here, so little fear, it is really a wonderful place to be.



We have decided to stay at least three or four more days, as Amy continues Ayurvedic treatments and we continue with daily Yoga sessions. We found a Yoga Master here named Sajee, really amazing, three hour classes combining Hatha Yoga, meditation, pranayama, and Satsang.