Belize

We crossed the border at Melchior, Guatemala into Belize.  Within two hours we are in a completely different culture.  First of all, it’s English (and Creole).  I’m still speaking Spanish, have to get used to English again. There is a wide mix of people, black Caribbean, sounding more Jamaican than anything, ladinos, Chinese, Mennonites and lots of other church groups.  Even though Creole is “English”, I honestly can’t understand more than a few words that sound like English.  The architecture is different too with lots of ramshackle wooden houses up on stilts, not as much of the concrete block construction common in Guatemala.  At first I think it is more developed and “together” than Guatemala, but I soon learn it is also very third world with similar problems of poverty, violence and poor education and medical services.  The countryside is beautiful, lowland jungle heading towards the Caribbean coast.

People are friendly, though kind of gruff on the outside compared to the sweet Guatemalan locals.  Voices are loud, the energy is more boisterous (Caribbean?).

We arrived in Caye Caulker on Thursday afternoon.  Two hours on a bus and another hour on a bumpy water taxi.  We walked with all our stuff and finally found a place further down the beach with very basic cabins on the beach.  It’s less expensive than most places here, and it’s okay.

The beach isn’t really a beach, but I did dive in the ocean off the rickety dock.  The water is warm and clean, lots of little fishes swimming around, can’t wait to snorkel/dive here.  This is reputed to be one of the finest diving areas in the world, so we’re looking forward to three days here on the ocean.  We rented bicycles this evening, so we are “free to explore”.

Margaritas at The Split - sundown

 After arranging bicycles, diving and snorkelling, we went to a spot called “The Split” to watch the sunset.  The Split is a place where there is a channel from one part of the island to the other.  There is a small sandy beach and lots of people hanging around and drinking.  We watched the red sun set over the ocean – another spectacular sunset, had margaritas, and hung out with some of the folks there.  Then we went up some back streets to a local restaurant, had conch fingers, salad and fried chicken.  I also had a rum drink with coconut and pineapple, which I later found out is called a Pantyripper (!).

We had a less than peaceful night in the cabin.  The wind is really strong right now, and we are out on the beach so it whistled through the walls and windows, and the big gusts would wake us up.  We may move after tonight to a more quiet spot off the beach.  We woke up this morning, Friday, and had breakfast then rode over to Frenchy’s dive shop.  Unfortunately, because of the heavy winds, diving is cancelled for the day.  We had planned to do a two-tank dive today, just chill tomorrow, then take a sailboat snorkelling tour on Sunday.  Now today is our chill day, and we are hoping the wind dies down for tomorrow.

A friend we met on our bicycle tour

Impressions of Caye Caulker, Belize.  Amy, we aren’t in Guatemala any more!  Such a different vibe, we have to adjust to the gruff style of the locals.  Service is not always with a smile, but once you talk to people, they brighten up and are fine.  Things are also more expensive here than in Guate, especially on the tourist strip.  We don’t see avocados here, where Guate was avocado heaven, but there are lots of nice tropical fruits, good vegetables, lots of fish and conch (no lobster right now), as well as meat, chicken, mutton and pork.

Amy and I on bikes - Caye Caulker

So we are praying for the wind to die down so we can dive tomorrow – this is why we came, after all.  Let’s hope.