Paul Gellman's blog

Guatemala Ponderings

2012-01-30T19:51:00.000-05:00

So many things happen every week, it’s hard to focus on oneor two things to write about. Amy said: “Startwith a feeling, and then the details will come from there.” Good advice, I think. I do that often with writing songs and music,since for me, most of what I create musically is about capturing andcommunicating a feeling. So…

What am I feeling?

I feel truly blessed to have the opportunity of spendingsome months in this glorious place, outside of San Marcos, Lake Atitlan,Guatemala. I was here in 1975, andcoming back feels a little like coming home. Much has changed, but the feeling of this place still connects with myheart.

After the hot springs near Antigua

First of all, it is stunningly beautiful. Nature abounds, from the volcanoes thatsurround this magical lake, to the abundance of flowers, birds and butterfliesthat are all around us. Then there isthe magic of Maya, the indigenous people of Guatemala, who have been here forthousands of years, in spite of all attempts to conquer, annihilate and assimilatethem into whatever culture was prevailing. From the conquistadors from Spain in the 1500’s to the Ladino conquerorsof the last 50 years or so, who set out to “cleanse” the population, resultingin the deaths or disappearances of by some accounts more than 350,000 Mayanpeople, men women and children. Everytown and village has stories to tell of relatives who were murdered or “disappeared”by the military or by mercenary squads. And yet the Mayan culture still exists, and is becoming stronger. Some people say that Santiago Atitlan, whichwe can see from our front porch across the lake, is the largest indigenouscities (population 32,000) in the Americas. We have yet to visit there, but it is definitely on our list!

Fire Ceremony

So my feelings are mixed. In the midst of extraordinary beauty and amazing sweetness of the Mayanpeople here, this place is truly f*&#ed up! The poor people (mostly indigenous) are more than poor. They are often hungry, the kids have noshoes, and they are often without parents. Education is a very low priority, and boys may go to school for only acouple of years before they are needed to help pick coffee or work with therest of the family. The illiteracy rateis the second highest in the hemisphere, and though many outsiders (i.e.gringos) and local Mayan leaders are lending support to building new schools,buying shoes and backpacks for poor kids so they can be allowed to go toschool, and convincing the parents that the kids have to go (and keep going) toschool, the problem is immense. And,what is most disconcerting, the government does not seem to have the resourcesor will to focus funding and emphasis on improving education.

Also, like many developing countries, Guatemala doesn’t dealwith garbage or sewage with any kind of effectiveness. I have heard that there was a sewagetreatment plant in Panajachel, the tourist centre of the lake, and after thelast hurricane in 2005, it was destroyed. In six years, they have not managed to rebuild it, so “black water” isflowing freely into the lake. With thetourism industry being one of the main sources of money in the country (afteragriculture), one would think the government would be more interested in fixingsuch a serious problem. But nothing seemsto be happening.

I believe there is a lot of corruption here. Of course, there is corruption everywhere,even in our beloved Canada. But here itis flagrant, obvious, and accepted. Forsome reason, the government finds funds to pave a section of road (only asection mind you) outside of San Marcos, and erect a giant gate with asculpture of a lion on top. Very nicevery nice. But the roads in town areunpaved, the schools are suffering, and people are starving. Why the fancy gate? I can’t help but think it can only be a powerplay, rewarding some crony with money. There is money, but how is it spent?

There was an election this year, and the government ischanging. Or is it? The new president was a former generalimplicated in the massacres during the Civil War years of the 80s and 90s. He was also the architect of the Peace Treatythat ended the war, so he has done some good things related to reconciliation. But no matter who is elected, it seems thatit is more of the same, the same people representing the same interests. Guatemala is controlled by a very smalloligarchy, and no matter who is elected, it doesn’t seem to change much.

Where I do see change and hope is in the efforts of theindigenous peoples, aided by some of us “gringos” and a few ladinos, to rebuildthe Mayan society, to celebrate the richness and sacred traditions of the Maya,and most of all, to connect with the natural world, and to repair, rebuild, andgenerate the seeds of holistic, natural life. Lots of permaculture, organic growing operations, efforts to protect theheritage seeds of the indigenous people, especially from threats from without,including multi-nationals like Monsanto (can they really be as evil as theyseem?). These initiatives are trulypositive and inspiring, and there is lots of it.

Tata Pedro

And lastly, it is important to remember that life isfragile, here and everywhere. There arefrequent earthquakes, hurricanes, and mudslides during the rainy seasons. The water level of the lake is rising a lot,destroying property along the shores. Pollution continues to plague the lake, though it is possible to swimwhere we are (at the moment). Andpoverty and illiteracy are two huge problems that never seem to go away. Robberies and violence are very common,especially in Guatemala city, but even here in this most peaceful and beautifulenvironment, we are told not to walk alone on the roads at night, not to hikeunless we’re in a group, not to carry valuables, and so on. So there is that edge of fear that alsoexists here. We have personally experienced only friendly beautiful people, andwe have had no problems. Yet we aremindful of the dangers of this place.

I love it here, I love being here, and I am learning andexperiencing new things every day. It isa kind of paradise, in a way, but as we spend more time here, we also know thatthere are many serious problems, and that in some ways things are notokay. Still, our lives are blessed, andwe are trying to take advantage of these opportunities as best we can. Thanks to God for all You provide!

Pasaj-Cap days

2012-01-16T14:23:00.001-05:00

Well it’s been a while since I last posted. It’s been an interesting couple ofweeks. Amy and I continue ourexplorations of Lake Atitlan, and especially the San Marcos area. Josh is on his way to points south, andanother friend arrives today for a week, staying in town.

We traveled to Guatemala City last Friday to spend oursecond Shabbat with the Casa Hillel community. They are so wonderful, and we have established a mutual loveaffair. This time we stayed with afamily that moved to Guatemala from Colombia five years ago, and began theconversion process to Judaism while here. Yakov is a dentist, and he has become quite knowledgeable, to the pointof being the main prayer leader. Raudithis an esthetician, who has set up shop in their home. They have three teenage children, two girls19 and 17 and a boy 15. They insisted onvacating the “master bedroom” so Amy and I could sleep there. They speak little English, so we got topractice our limited Spanish a lot! Itis coming along, though it can be a struggle sometimes. Actually it turns out that all three kids arelearning English in school, so they were holding out on us! Nevertheless, it’s important for us to beforced to speak Spanish.

I helped lead services, brought my guitar to share somesongs and prayers. Some they alreadyknew, though not well, so I was able to enhance their knowledge of those. Others were brand new, and we learned andthen sang them together. I was also ableto chant some of the Torah portion from the scroll, which they are not used todoing, so that was a nice addition to their ritual experience. After services, we shared lunch together, andthen Amy went to work with the “kids” teaching them basic Hebrew readingskills, and beginning to prepare Ardany for his becoming Bar Mitzvah nextNovember. The teenagers are veryenthusiastic and appreciative, as Amy weaved her magic with them. I took a nap in the back room on an airmattress (well it was Shabbat after all!).

Life in Guatemala is complicated. There is so much joy, and yet it is usuallyfraught with challenges and difficulties. The day before our arrival, thieves ripped the water metre off theoutside wall of the Casa Hillel house, so there was no running water or toiletavailable for the weekend. We brought inbig bottles of purified water, but we were limited in our water use. So in the afternoon, Amy suggested we go forice cream (and to use the Baños!). We ended up at a large mall nearby. It was packed with people! This is life and entertainment for many inthe big city. Kind of crazy!

We returned to the Lake on Sunday with our friends Claytonand Rosalie (Maalaa) from Gabriola. Rosalie arrived early Sunday morning, so we shared a ride with them andthe wonderful driver Chema. When I gotback, I crashed! Maybe I picked upsomething in the city, maybe I was exhausted, but I really had no energy anddidn’t feel well. Whatever it was passedthrough me over the next three days or so, and I felt myself graduallyimproving each day. I feel much betternow, though I have started taking some remedies to help keep my system free ofunwanted “guests”. So far so good…

When we are here, we have a wonderful routine of waking uparound 7:30, making coffee and taking it slowly till about 9. Then Yoga, meditation, then breakfast. We have Internet here, so there iscorrespondence and computer “work” that we generally do in the morning. My current activities include sending outapplications to perform at music festivals in B.C. this summer, recording somesongs and prayers to send to Casa Hillel so they can practice when we’re notthere. There are also “giglets” andother musical events happening here that I get involved with. We are planning some hikes building up to thebig one, climbing Volcano San Pedro. Weare also planning some trips to other villages around the lake, time inAntigua, and other explorations in this area. We are busy and productive, with enough time to just be. It’s a good balance for us, and I highlyrecommend it to anyone who can manage it!

We have been enjoying some of the local music scene over thepast few days. On Friday night we wentto Ganesh, a nice restaurant performance space in town, and saw two Norwegianyoung women who sang sweet harmonies together, accompanied by Meaghan on violin.They accompanied a magican who did a climbing show on sheets tied to the highceiling, followed by a magic/comedy set. They ended early (around 9) so we headed to another spot in town calledBlind Lemon’s, where Carlos, an American who has been connected to San Marcosfor many years, held forth with his wonderful blues guitar and singing withvintage instruments including a National Steel Guitar, a parlour acoustic andanother slide guitar. Then last night(Saturday) we went to another musical show with Sativo, a local hip-hop artistwho sings mostly in Spanish accompanied by acoustic guitar and beats using hismouth. He incorporated others into hisperformance, including another rapper from Cuba, a young woman rapper/singerfrom Costa Rica and local man who rapped in the indigenous Kaqchikel language –that was a first! Then he invited some ofthe local boys to breakdance. It was aninternational hip-hop fest, and though I couldn’t understand many of the lyrics(which of course is the key to hip-hop/rap music), it was still very enjoyableand energetic, with lots of people dancing and partying. A good night!

Sativo at Ganesh

I notice that time is flying by. We will have been here on the lake for amonth on Sunday, which seems incredible to me. We are loving being here, and there’s lots to do before our time comesto depart. So I’d better get busy now!

New Year’s Eve on Lake Atitlan

2012-01-01T12:00:00.000-05:00


The Lake

What a magical place to be for New Year’s! Josh Amy and I are here in our beautifulplace at Pasaj-Cap, a fifteen minute to San Marcos. Here is what my New Year’s Eve day shaped upto be:

I woke up around 7 or 7:30. It’s hard to sleep when the sun comes up and illuminates Volcano SanPedro which faces are big window. It’sbetter to get up! We drank coffee,checked email, hung out for a little bit enjoying our surroundings. Then I went up to our roof where there is alittle palapa with hammock and some lounge chairs. There is a shady spot up there, and I lay outmy yoga mat and started a short yoga routine. I heard a little explosion, and saw a puff of smoke in the distance,emerging from Volcano Fuego which is towards Antigua. Okay, carry on with sun (and volcano) salutations. I am struck by the power and magic of mysurroundings on a regular basis. Thelake is always changing, it seems like it is different every moment. The light and shadow changes, the wind risesand falls, sometimes it is calm, sometimes the lake is filled withwhitecaps. There are many villagesvisible around the circumference of the lake.

I was starting to wrap up my little practice and prepare tosit for 10 minutes, when Amy came up and was clearly upset. “What’s wrong?” I asked. “I must have left my iPhone at Del Lago lastnight. It’s gone!”

So instead of sitting, we walked to town, about 20 minutesaway. There was upsetness happening, andI reminded Amy to just look around, or, as is my mantra when we travel: “Lookwhere we are!” The rough dirt road totown, is absolutely stunning, with tons of trees of all kinds, flowers, birds,and of course, the lake.

Del Lago is the name of the Hostalito/Restaurant wediscovered immediately upon our arrival in San Marcos. We tend to be drawn there for manyreasons. One reason is our Spanishteacher, Andres (Andrew). Andrew isoriginally from Brooklyn, and was teaching Spanish to middle school studentsthere for a few years. He decided tostep away from the “system” and come to Guatemala to see how he could apply hisskills and knowledge to make a difference here. He is 27 years old, and we have become good friends. He also happens to be a wonderful Spanishteacher, and both Amy and I are working hard and making progress.

Amy and Amir in the communal kitchen at Del Lago

Anyhow, we started asking around, and when we asked Steve,who is kind of the manager of the place, he pulled Amy’s iPhone out of hispocket and said someone found it and handed it to him. What a relief!

So in a much happier space, we grabbed Andres and took himout for breakfast at his favourite little Libreria/Restaurant called “Iris” nearDel Lago. Breakfast costs around $3 fora full meal with coffee and juice, and we spent some valuable time with Andreshelping him process a difficult situation he was going through. An hour or more later (Guatemalan time!) westrolled back home to join Josh.

Our “landlord” Pierre hosted a party here down by the lakeshoreon the property in the afternoon for guests and friends from around San Marcos. It was well underway when we arrived (around2 pm). There was a pile of fire roastedchicken, salads, including a broccoli salad we brought, mojitos and wine andbeer. There was a “weed” circle nearbyas well. Recorded dance music wasplaying, and around 30 people were there. Josh and I played a few tunes on guitar and charrango, then the dancemusic came on again. It was a niceparty, and I met around 10 new people, some who were staying on the property,and some who live nearby. It is a reallyinteresting group of people from all over the world: France, Belgium, Germany,Canada, U.S., Sri Lanka, and more. Oneintense thing that happened was the Sri Lankan man collapsed and needed someurgent medical care, with concerns about his heart rate. One guest from Canada (also named Paul) is apsychiatrist, and he was able to help stabilize the man. Finally Josh helped translate from English toSpanish, and the man was carried to a waiting truck for transport home. It definitely affected the mood of the party,and was a reminder of the fragility of our lives, especially in a remoteenvironment like this one.

We left the party around 5 pm, and rested in our apartmentfor a couple of hours. Ahhh – quiet time! Then the three of us walked into town toRestaurant Fé(which means faith in Spanish). Again,the road is always magical and changing. Last night there was a big circle around the almost half moon, guidingour way along the road. Our Israelifriend Uria was performing on guitar and vocals for the evening, and Josh and aviolin player named Jorge joined him. Ialso joined on guitar for a couple of long songs. We had a nice dinner (vegetarian Kashmircurry and Palak Paneer, Josh had chicken Biryani). We spent some time hanging out with Uria’spartner Titeli (butterfly in Sanskrit, and when she danced to the music wecould understand why that was her name), sleeping baby Ariel, who will turn twoon January 9. Ariel is a very specialchild, born exactly 30 years to the day after Josh. They have a connection! The family is traveling with Uria’s motherTziona, and will spend a couple of months together in Hawaii, there nextdestination. Lucky Mom! So after more music, conversation, food andbeverages, things wrapped up around 10 pm. How nice and early! We grabbed a tuk-tuk (rickshaw) ride home,and actually went to bed around 11 pm.

We were awoken by the sounds of fireworks. We got up and went to the window. I wish we could capture what we saw in aphoto - it would have to be a panoramic shot. We can see almost all the way around the lake, and we could see brightcolours flashing in around 8 different places, 8 different villages. It lasted for more than half and hour, and wejust observed from our little apartment fiery colours miles away. It was quite amazing!

And so we had a very rich and full day to welcome in 2012. Of course 2012 is a most significant year inthe Mayan calendar, and it seems so fitting that we bring in 2012 here on LakeAtitlan! I have a feeling that this yearwill be another adventurous one for us! Hang on to our hats!

Hoping anyone reading this post also enjoyed a great New Year’sEve, and wishing a good year to all!

Casa Hillel

2011-12-29T10:30:00.001-05:00

Okay Casa Hillel. It’shard to describe, but it is wonderful to be there!

It starts with two people. Both man and wife grow up in a Catholic environment, never feelingcomfortable or at home with the Church. They both were searching for a spiritual path that was real to them, andthey discovered a deep resonance with progressive Judaism. They began to reach out to see if there wereothers “out there” who felt the same way. Eventually a Reform Rabbi from the United States contacted them andagreed to help them develop a Jewish life and community. They began the conversion program with this man,and others came and sought conversion as well. The community is made up of around thirty souls, twenty adults, and tenyoungsters from two months to nineteen years old.


Los Ninos with Chanukah candles

The first thing that strikes me when I meet these people towelcome the Shabbat on Friday night, is the positive energy they exude. The teenagers in particular are amazing,kissing the mezuzah with reverence as they enter the modest house that servesas synagogue, and participating with energy and enthusiasm in all the rituals,songs, games and learning. We lit theChanukah candles, sang songs together, some that we brought, some that theyknew, including a couple of Ladino songs, and some we knew together. Then we lit Shabbat candles, said some moreprayers, a short kiddush, motzi and we sat down to a dinner all together. Then more songs and games of dreydl allaround. There was one table of adults –at least 8 people – and a table of youngsters – around 10, all playing andlaughing and enjoying the holiday and each other. It was such a joy!


Shabbat Services


Amy sharing

These people have so little, and are so rich in spirit. They struggle to be accepted by themainstream Jewish community in Guatemala, with almost no success. There are some members of those communitieswho are friends and who come, but they are shunned by most because they saythey are not really Jewish, the conversion was not “real”, and so on. They are in the process of reaching out tothe Reform Jewish community of all of Latin America, and may soon become arecognized Reform congregation representing the Reform movement in Guatemala.

They have a lot to learn. We are starting to help teach them Hebrew, more prayers for Shabbat,Torah portions, and so on. They are openand receptive, and have put together their own Siddur with Hebrew, Spanish andtransliteration. They are leadingservices every Shabbat morning, have a Torah, an ark and a Torah table. We spent the whole day together on Shabbat,arriving around 10 am, and not leaving until after Havdalah and food around 9pm. Two month old Sarita is the centreof attention, and a baby-naming with “Rabina Elyse” is upcoming. They adore Rabbi Elyse Goldstein and are sograteful for the way she has embraced them over the past six months. And Ardany will celebrate his Bar Mitzvah inNovember 2012, and we are trying to help him prepare for that.


Havdalah

We are so thankful for the opportunity of experiencing thiswonderful community, and look forward to spending more Shabbatot with them overthe next couple of months.

Shabbat, Chanukah and Christmas in Guatemala City

2011-12-28T22:21:00.002-05:00

We spent our Chanukah Shabbat (December 24) with the Casa Hillel communityin Guatemala City. I will share myexperiences with them in another posting. Being in Guatemala City is a trip! It makes me aware of the different way of life that is here, especiallyin the city. I think all over LatinAmerica there is a feeling of extremes. The poverty is pervasive and grinding, and leads to violence and criminalactivity. From what I hear, this happensall over Latin America, from Mexico through Central and South America. Guatemala City is the epitome of thatexistence.

We stayed with a family in Zone 11, which is kind ofsuburban, and supposedly safer than other areas. Still, the fortress mentality was evidenteverywhere. There was a guard with arifle waiting as we passed into the street near the house. Many roads were fenced off. The houses all had steel gates and fenceswith barbed wire above. Every window hadbars, especially on the ground floor. There were virtually no cars parked on the street – they are kept behindthe steel gates for safety. Hardlyanybody walks alone, groups are safer. We were there for Christmas, and were basically told to stay indoors atnight, since a lot of drinking makes it even more dangerous. There were loud fireworks that went on formore than an hour and a half, from all over the city. I am amazed that people here, who clearly arenot wealthy, spend thousands of Quetzals (hundreds of dollars) on fireworks to “celebrate”Christmas. We could hear them near us,could see some of the trails from our window, and remained indoors the wholetime. What a life!

There are many murders daily in Guatemala City. Our host family is still mourning the loss ofone of the sons, whose car was “car-jacked” a year ago. They suppose he might have resisted therobbers, and they shot and killed him. Another member of the Casa Hillel community came to the synagogue in a “vintage”Nissan car from the ‘80s, all banged up and barely running. When he arrived, he opened the hood andremoved a spark plug cable. He wasworried that the thieves would steal his car. Another member had his car stolen from the same spot within the last fewmonths. Robbery is rampant, we arewarned not to go out at night, not to wear jewellery, not to carry much cash,and most of all, not to resist if we are approached. We are told to never use the regular publicbuses, or to walk alone anywhere.

Nevertheless, life goes on for several million residents,they walk the streets, take the buses, and carry on with life. There are apparently wonderful museums, parksand other attractions in the city, lots of night life in Zona Viva and otherplaces, and many people say the city is great. I suppose they accept the constant danger with resignation and thencarry on. Some have no choice.

We were taken on a car tour by one of the Casa Hillelfamilies, and traveled through many zones of the city. There are historic areas with beautifularchitecture, a palace, many churches and cathedrals. We drove past some synagogues, which againare mostly hidden from view. We wereimpressed however by a plaza dedicated to the State of Israel, which is clearlyappreciated and supported by the government of Guatemala. There is a huge Magen David (Star of David)inscribed with words of thanks for the State of Israel. We are told that there is little or noanti-semitism. Yet we are told thetraditional Jewish community is very insular and exclusive, afraid of outsideinfluences.

A place of paradoxes! We spent a wonderful weekend with our new friends of Casa Hillel (moreon this later), and when we returned to the lake, we breathed a huge sigh ofrelief. It is so peaceful and beautifulon Lake Atitlan. Yet even here, there isdanger. Robberies are frequent,especially on pay days and before Christmas with its associated pay bonuses. Sometimes robberies turn violent, even inthis very quiet and rural area. So here,and I suspect in most parts of Latin America, life is cheap, poverty isgrinding, and the danger is real.

So why come to a place like this? Lake Atitlan is a magical, mystical powerplace that is so beautiful it takes my breath away several times a day. 99% of the people we have met are absolutelywonderful, welcoming, warm and friendly. The indigenous community is incredible, and we are hoping to be exposedto the spiritual life and practices of the Mayan peoples as we spend more timehere. There is a feeling of power andpeacefulness here on the lake, and the travelers and expats who spend time hereshare a common feeling of seeking peace and harmony and learning. Overall it is an incredible place, and anincredible experience. We just have toremember to take precautions and be smart. Then, with luck and grace, all will continue to be well.

Chanukah on Lake Atitlan

2011-12-21T09:29:00.000-05:00

Last night was the first candle-lighting of Chanukah. Amy and I pondered how to honour theoccasion, and realized that we had sent all the Chanukah materials to CasaHillel in Guatemala City, and did not keep any for ourselves! We thought about making a crude Chanukiyahfrom stone and beer bottle caps, and even picked up a couple of likely piecesof stone on our way into San Marcos for our first Spanish lesson.

Our teacher Andres (Andrew) is a 27 year old man fromBrooklyn who has been living on the lake for about four months. He is a professional teacher with a Mastersdegree in ESL, and is working and living in San Marcos, teaching, cooking,doing whatever to live and learn. He isalso Jewish. As soon as we arrived atHostalito Del Lago, the hostel where he lives, we saw a sign on the wallannouncing Chanukah celebrations and candle-lighting that evening at Ganesh, arestaurant/performance space in San Marcos. So after our Spanish lesson, we planned to head over to Ganesh.

Of course, Amy got right to work making latkes in thecommunal kitchen at Del Lago with Amir, an Israeli living there. Here they are at work:

We headed over to Ganesh, latkes in hand. Daisy was there, pulling together theChanukah celebration. She was thrilledto see us, and even more so the latkes! The fact that Amy and I knew the prayers was a big help to her as well,and there were around a dozen Jewish people there among the 50 or sopeople. They had made a Chanukiyah froma big flat rock, and had lined up eight candles in the front, with many othercandles around. During the blessings,Daisy lit the Shamash and first candle, and then invited anyone who wanted toto light a candle outside of the eight.

We sang Chanukah songs, accompanied by Meaghan on the violin, ate latkesand sufganiyot (Guatemalan style – no jelly). Then a lovely four piece acoustic band played a combination of westernand Spanish music. After eating a fabulous burrito and consuming several beers, we took a tuk-tukhome (scooter with seats, like the Indian rickshaw), since it was dark, and itwas safer than walking home at night.

So we celebrated the first night of Chanukah in style, inSan Marcos, Guatemala. We also learnedof other events and workshops happening in this area, which is known as the NewAge Centre on the lake. So today, beforeour Spanish lesson, we will attend a Chocolate Shaman ceremony, where purechocolate is consumed and creates an environment for raising emotionalawareness, under the guidance of Keith, the Shaman. Should be very interesting, no? And later on tonight there is a WinterSolstice fiesta happening at another hotel down the lake in Santa Cruz. We will take a shuttle boat there around 7pm, enjoy the celebration, and get a boat right to our dock at 10 or so.

It’s going to be another full day! Here is sunrise at Pasaj-Cap.

Pasaj-Cap

2011-12-19T19:04:00.002-05:00

We arrived on Lake Atitlan on Thursday night, after a 12hour travel day by multiple shuttle vans from San Cristobal, Chiapas, Mexico,south to Guatemala, where we boarded another van that took us to kilometro 148where we were met by another van to take us to San Marcos, Lake Atitlan,Guatemala. Here is what our surroundingslook like:

We are getting settled into our paradise spot here! Surrounded by volcanoes, a beautiful lakewith several Mayan villages around the shores, villagers speaking variousindigenous languages (Kaqchikel, Tzotzil are two we have heard here). People are generally extremely friendly andwelcoming, and we are already having adventures, visiting Panajachel and SanPedro. Yoga in the morning, excursionsin the afternoons, making nice meals in our kitchen here, and generally feelinghealthy and full.

We have a couple of volunteer projects we are involvedwith. Next Friday we will travel toGuatemala City to stay with families of Casa Hillel, a Jewish community in thecity. I am not really excited aboutbeing in the city – I think it’s a bit of a hellhole – but we will “hide out”with the community we are staying with and I am sure it will be just fine! This is a new Jewish community, nativeGuatemalans who sought out a religion for themselves, discovered Judaism, andwere converted by a Reform Rabbi from the US. They are just starting to learn Hebrew, customs, rituals, and prayer,and we are going to visit them for several Shabbatot to share whatever we know,as well as music for Chanukah and Shabbat and anything else. I am excited to be with them, even if it isin Guatemala City. It’s about a fourhour trip from here, first a boat to Panajachel, then a shuttle van to thecity, where our host family will pick us up.

Until then we will be around here, in this most awesomeenvironment, chilling, exploring, doing a little work (Amy has a little remotework going on), taking Spanish lessons at a hostel in San Marcos, about a 20minute walk from here, and experiencing life on Lake Atitlan. We are so blessed!

Palenque/Chiapas

2011-12-11T16:47:00.001-05:00

We traveled to Palenque on the overnight bus from Cancun –Amy, Josh and I. It actually took around14 hours instead of 12, but all in all it wasn’t a bad ride. I probably slept around 4-5 hours on andoff. They played a succession and moviesand programs, all made in English but dubbed into Spanish with no subtitles. I watched a movie on my computer, then triedto sleep. There were many checkpoints wepassed through going from the Yucatan through the states of Campeche, Tabascoand finally Chiapas. There has been someunrest over the years in Chiapas with the oppression of the locals, especiallythe Mayan population there. The militaryand police presence is very evident on the streets and highways. At 5 am on the bus, we stopped at acheckpoint, and a soldier came on the bus and started asking questions ofvarious passengers, mostly the younger ones, including Josh. They asked them to get off the bus and openedtheir backpacks and suitcases searching, I suppose, for weapons and drugs. The soldier also came back on the bus whileJosh was outside and snooped around in his backpack. It kind of gave me the creeps, but Josh saidthat he was actually really nice, smiling and asking questions about is campingstove, how long the gas canister lasted and so on. He figured he wanted one just like it. Anyways, after about a half hour we were onour way again.

We arrived in Palenque around 11 am, and proceeded to theColectivo – a van that takes people from one area to the next, and after ashort ride we arrived at our destination, a compound of small hotels, cabinsand restaurants called Al Panchan. Webooked into a small cabin on the river in a place called Jungle Palace. The cabin was very basic, with no bathroomand only a small lightbulb in the ceiling. The walls were all screened, so it was almost like being outside. It was right on the river, so we could hearthe sound of the water all the time. Andthe jungle is amazing! Huge trees andtropical leaves, great bamboo clusters and palms, lots of birds, butterflies, aswell as hundreds of fish easily visible in the river. At night we can hear the howler monkeys,though we have yet to see them. We sleptthere the first night, not a great sleep as there was a lot of music andpartying going on till the wee hours.

The next morning we decided to upgrade to a room with aprivate bathroom, slightly away from the river, but much roomier and a littlenicer, even with towels provided. Forthis we paid the grand price of 200 pesos per night, which is around $16.At night we returned to our place, and on the way beganwalking with a woman who was strolling along the road near us. We started talking and I said: “You’re fromCanada, aren’t you?” Yes she said. “Wherefrom?” “Gabriola Island” she said. Oh come on!!! What are the chances of that? Coincidence? I think not! So now she is hanging with us, we’ve done some yoga together and sharedstories of our common friends on Gabriola (there are many). We went for dinner and watched a greatMexican family band play a long set of very danceable music, and then settledin to watch fire dancing while drinking Margaritas. The fire dancers – there were four men – werephenomenal! Each one had a differentcharacter, and each act led to the next in a big crescendo of excitement. Sometimes they danced in pairs, sometimessolo, and it was a wonderful combination of dance, theatre, mime, fire andmagic! We had a great party last night!

We have been here for three days, and have taken twoexcursions so far. Yesterday we went tothe Mayan ruins about a half hour walk from here. These ruins are very large and extensive, andright in the jungle, so there are ancient trees, including orange and bananatrees, with the howler monkeys accompanying us with their sounds as we explore. What a beautiful and powerful place thisis! At the height of the civilizationthat inhabited this “town”, there were approximately 8,000 people livinghere. There are around 15 temples, apalace, residences, army headquarters, a ball court and so on. It covers acres and acres of jungle, andthere are rivers and waterfalls running through the area as well – gorgeous. The timeframe was around 600 AD to 900 AD, afterwhich the town went into decline. Thereare sculptures of Mayan rulers and supernatural beings. In the museum nearby we saw large incense “censers”made from ceramic and stones, depicting rulers, deities, animals and otherfigures. I felt a real connection withthe West Coast Native cultures like Haida, as many of the sculptures had atotem feel to them. I tried to imaginewhat life was like living in this town back then. We walked and walked through the ruins andthe jungle, amazed by the scope of the ruins and the beauty of thesurroundings.

Today we took a van with a load of travelers to twowonderful waterfalls. The first one iscalled Misel-ha, and it is very high. Amy and Josh jumped in the water and swam in the deep pools below thefalls, and I hung out and breathed in the air filled with the mist of thefalls. All around are the greenmountains of Chiapas, and it is quite a magical space. Then on we went to the next site called AguaAzul (Blue Waters) with a multi-level series of smaller falls that run for atleast a couple of kilometres. We walkedto the top of the park, and Josh and I jumped in the water in a safe area. It was very refreshing, and again a magicaland beautiful location.

So we have another couple of days to be here inPalenque. Tomorrow we’ll go to town fora few hours to check in online (no Internet here in the jungle), check busschedules to our next stop, San Cristobal de la Casas, and pick up a fewthings, including lunch. Then back “home”for a chill afternoon and evening, preparing for yet another adventure inChiapas.

Cancun Experiences

2011-12-11T16:20:00.001-05:00

Well this is my first blog in a long time! I hope this will get me going again. Amy and I flew to Cancun on Sunday November 27, and booked into a little B&B/Hostel right in the heart of Cancun (Mercado 28), to be joined by four of our kids! We were invited to a wedding of Amy's New York cousin, and we invited the kids to fly down here and join us, and we would cover room and board for the week. And four came! Of course we could have stayed at the wedding hotel in Playa Mujeres, but it would have cost more than our travel budget for three months! So here we are in this lovely B&B with our wonderful host Patricia, cooking meals together, hanging out and taking excursions. The wedding was great - seeing family and their friends celebrate on the beach - very beautiful. We could have stayed another day there in the lap of luxury, but again, the costs were just too high. Also, this kind of place is so exclusive, I am excluded! I've been thrown out of much nicer places (not really!). It's amazing how our style of travel has changed over the years. Now I so much prefer being in the local environment, reasonable and simple. We're still tourists, but we are not removed from the regular life of the city of Cancun. I never thought I would like being in Cancun, but this experience has been great!Yesterday, five of us traveled to Akumal, a lovely beach area where we could swim with giant turtles, sting rays, coral and lots of different tropical fish. We snorkeled and hung out, then traveled further to Tulum and the Grand Cenote, which is a spring-filled fresh water pool with fabulous caves. People were actually scuba diving through the caves, and apparently this water runs all the way to the ocean. Amazing!Today is a chill day, catching up on correspondence, blogging and checking out our next step. Two of the kids have now left to go back to Canada, a third one leaves tomorrow. Josh, Amy and I will take the overnight bus to Palenque tomorrow night, and stay there for about a week before Amy and I head to our apartment on Lake Atitlan! I will try to write about each place at least once, so if you are interested, please stay tuned!

California!

2011-01-29T17:13:00.004-05:00

It’s about time!

We drove from Toronto leaving January 7, and over three weeks we have passed through 15 states. There are many highlights, but I think the most powerful so far has been in Arizona.

Starting in Prescott we reconnected with my dear friend Tom and his wife Christa. Tom and I were bandmates in the 70’s on the west coast, and like the song says, it’s been twenty years since we have seen each other. So there was a grand reunion for a few days at his place in Chino Valley. It is beautiful country, with high plains and mountains. And our hosts were wonderful guides to the area. Here is a photo of sunset at Chino Valley:

Here are the words to the song:

Where Does the Time Go? By Paul Gellman Dec 2010

My friend we’ve travelled down different roads

Still you’re near me, to my heart you’re close

Seems like yesterday I saw your face

It’s been twenty years, gone without a trace.

Chorus

Who knows? Where does the time go?

My love we’ve had our babies, we’ve watched them grow

Now they’ve gone living lives of their own

Seems like yesterday I held a little hand

It’s been so long, I just don’t understand

Chorus

Who knows? Where does the time go? (x4)

Bridge

When I see the days fly by me, in the blink of an eye me, and they’re gone.

So many moments have escaped us, slipped away from us, never to return

How do we make this moment more than a moment for all time?

Because each and every precious moment is but a moment in time.

Where does the time go?

Mom and Dad you’ve left this earth

You’re still inside me here, you gave me love, you gave me birth.

Seems like yesterday I held you near

It’s been many years, and they’ve just disappeared

Chorus Who Knows?...

Next stop was Sedona, which is stunningly beautiful, with giant red rock formations and powerful “vortex” spots that have spawned a huge and somewhat comical tourist trade. We only had a couple of days to explore, and it was not enough! We want to go back, and hope to take that route outbound when our journey home to Ontario resumes in a few weeks.

Then we drove north a couple of hours to the Grand Canyon. If Sedona was powerful, Grand Canyon is almost shocking in its power. To stand at the edge of this gigantic canyon, and look down (without falling over!) and see and hear the rapids of the Colorado River over a mile down, it is difficult to find words to describe the feeling. There were moments when I was trembling, partly in fear (I don’t like looking over edges of high places), and partly in awe of the incredible power of the place. It is quite simply, unreal, surreal, and awe inspiring. We want more if that too!

And now we are in California, our final destination outbound. Stay tuned for California tales!

Busy Times in B.C.

2010-08-11T15:17:00.000-04:00

People always say enjoy your vacation, and while we do take time to chill and go to the beach, it has been just so busy! There's not enough time!!!
We are currently in the middle of two building projects, one is a hot water "pavilion" being built from red cedar, lime plaster and so on... our new friend Anthony is an amazing green artist, and Amy and I are both helping with the building. I am learning more about construction (and how sore my body can get doing it!). I have "ripped" strips of fir from scrap pieces of milled wood to make half inch strips for lath - we're doing a lath and plaster wall in our shower. Contructed the lath wall, then build a compost bin for our new composting toilet which replaces our old outhouse - did that little "reno" as well. Amy is laying the tiles for the shower area. We are also starting to build a new "carport" from logs, cedar and galvanized metal roof to cover the old trailer and our car. So much to do, so little time!
It has been a busy musical time too, with three little gigs this past weekend. Friday night I played in Nanaimo with my west coast band, including son Josh on bass, a couple of Gabriola musicians and a drummer from Nanaimo. Lots of fun! A short set at the Salmon BBQ on Saturday with Tami and a conga player sitting in, then an afternoon couple of hours with Josh and Tami at Razzberry's Jazz Cafe here on the island. I have been writing new tunes as well, so it's been a creative time.
And it is winding down! Too soon, too soon.
I love being here, and want to be here more! We are thinking of extending our time next year if we can manage it, from May to September. That way we can plant a real garden, vegetables and flowers, and be here for the harvest. We may need to return to Toronto during that time for work and other obligations, but we are leaning towards that goal.
I find living in a beautiful place that is filled with nature is healing, creative, and just right for me. I still go through all the mental contortions and ups and downs, but I am generally happy and at peace. So I want more!! Toronto is a wonderful city, with incredible connections and community that I never want to lose, but after a few months, I am burnt out by the busy-ness and lack of quiet natural environment. Parks are nice, but the island is amazing!

Where does the time go?

2010-07-29T15:22:00.000-04:00

We've been on Gabriola for a month now. What??!!! It's just not possible. Now I'm stressed - too much to do, not enough time.

People say: "Isn't that nice you have a two month vacation on Gabriola." I don't mean to sound ungrateful - it's true we have time for the beach and to chill with friends, it's definitely not a rat race. Nevertheless, I can't believe how busy we get, and how much stuff there is to get done here! Between working on our land - cleaning, clearing, fixing, dealing with raccoon in our outside kitchen, planning and executing our improvement projects for the year, planning promoting and performing music gigs, dealing with family stuff all over the place, hosting friends and visitors, and assisting Amy with her workload, it's not vacation - it's living!

This morning we said goodbye to Alan and Iris who visited us from Toronto for the past few days. A wonderful time was had by all! A great visit, and we even composed a song together last night after a little bit of wine and general merriment - Iris was on her game: "I can do what I can do!" I hope we can remember the rest! It's a classic!

Last year's big project was installing a well - boy is that a miracle to have fresh clean water coming from the ground on our land! Especially on Gabriola where water can be scarce - we are very fortunate!

This year's main project is what I call "The Hot Water Pavilion". We are getting ready to build a gazebo kind of structure that will hold a hot water tank, shower area, sink washing area and maybe a washer/dryer (maybe just a washer). The trenches are dug, the area is cleared, a preliminary exterior design has been done, and tomorrow we will start to build the deck. A friend of Josh's from Nanaimo will be the expert, and Amy and I will assist. Once we have hot water, I think we will be complete! Here's a picture of the trench and clearing for the structure:

I performed on Thursday night at The Roxy, an intimate (40 seater) concert/movie theatre space here on Gabriola. Son Josh rocked on the bass, a drummer from Nanaimo Paul Nixon, then a couple of Gabriola locals Brad Shipley on guitar, mandolin and vocals and Tami Blazer on vocals completed the group. We had a very nice turnout of over 35 folks! It was really a great night, everyone was cooking, and the audience was wonderful. I will perform again in Nanaimo at The Red Room on Aug. 6, do a short solo set at the Gabriola Salmon BBQ on Aug. 7, then a casual perforance at Razzberry's Jazz Cafe (thanks for the invite Roger!) on Sunday Aug. 8 from 2-4. I also played a couple of gigs with good friend Frank Patrick, one at the Roxy and one at The Garage Showroom in Duncan. So there's been a lot of musical activity! And of course the above does not include time of playing and creating.

On Wednesday we will take our annual road trip to another area. This year's itinerary will take us to the interior - Nelson B.C. in the Kootenay Valley. Amy has never been there, I haven't been back in over 30 years, and our daughter Lindsay is living there currently. We are looking forward to a beautiful ride and a good visit.

So all is well and exciting and beautiful - this place is too wonderful! We want to be here more! Maybe next year we'll come out late spring and plant a proper garden! For now, I am sitting here at our outside dining room table, listening to the sea wind moving the trees, and enjoying the peaceful quiet of a truly natural surrounding. Here's a couple of more pictures of where I am:

2010-07-03T15:24:00.000-04:00

We arrived on Gabriola on Sunday evening and have been slowly cleaning clearing fixing and organizing our land. It's so great to be back. On Monday I sat with my guitar playing for the trees and a robin who seems to peacefully coexist in our little (unplanted) flower garden. A song popped out "I wanna go back to the island, I wanna go back to my home, I wanna go back to the island, where my soul belongs." Kind of a chant, with verses to come. Simple, easy, good feeling - that's how the island inspires me.

So where is your island? Is it even a place, or more of a space? I suppose I can find it everywhere, but it is difficult to stay in touch with that space while struggling to navigate life, especially in the city. So for me, getting to nature and quiet and beauty puts me back in that space, and heals me.

I was thinking about this place- Gabriola - and Kawagama. Both are islands, both are rich in personal history and growth for me, both create peace within me. What's different? Gabriola is an ocean island, and the Pacific has its own special strength. I can sense the tides rising and falling, and the power of vastness. I can look and see a white-capped Mount Baker 60 miles away to the southeast, or I can round the corner of Drumbeg Park and see the snowy mountains north of Vancouver, and up the Sunshine Coast. So one difference is the vastness of this region. Another is the different wildlife and vegetation here. Eagles and seals and otters, lots of unknown birds (American Goldfinch?), owls and tons of deer wandering through. Some animal ate our almond butter in the middle of the night. How did he open the jar?? Must have been a raccoon, they are so sneaky! Gigantic ferns, shasta daisies growing wild, giant firs and cedars and oh yeah we also have a beautiful maple on our land! Arbutus trees, slugs, general wildness! The other day I walked through the woods to Drumbeg Beach around 6 pm, and saw no-one! A couple of boats and planes out there but not a soul was on the beach. I can't remember the last time I felt that alone with nature! Beautiful.

So here we are, enjoying our place here, seeing old friends and new, and waiting for real summer weather - it's been very cool so far, with some rain, but we understand it will warm up this next week. Stay tuned, and talk to me if you like!

2010-06-07T15:27:00.000-04:00

My last two weekends have been especially full. Let me tell you about the first one.

The last weekend of May I joined five other men at our old summer camp site for a volunteer work (and play) weekend. I say old summer camp site, because it's not the same camp, only the same island.

It was Camp Kawagama, near Dorset, Ontario, on beautiful Kawagama lake, and it was very significant in my life. I spent eleven summers there, from the time I was a first year camper at 7 years old, to first year counsellor at 17. And then the camp shut down and was purchased by a non-profit organization who formed Camp Moorelands. Camp Kawagama was a full-service camp for priveleged (mostly) Jewish kids - by full service I mean all the activities you could shake a stick at - canoeing, swimming, water-skiing, horseback riding (!), incredible drama productions, canoe tripping and of course, lots of social activity as well. I absolutely loved camp! I used to say I lived at camp and only visited Toronto for the ten months between summers. I formed deep friendships there, some of which have lasted over 40 years. I met my first wife there, and we were teenage sweethearts. I learned so many skills, including canoeing, horseback riding, drama, baseball, basketball, canoe tripping, sailing, water-skiing, music and lots more. And now as I look back, I realize that the natural beauty, quiet and serenity made a deep impact on me, and provided some of my strongest early inclinations towards spiritual seeking. Nature is the door to silencing the mind, and even at a young age I was inspired by that silence.

We had a great weekend, a full day of work building twelve new benches for the dining hall, with time for swimming, eating and drinking, reminiscing, and connecting with the wonderful people who run the camp now. It is an incredible place that offers kids from inner city environments the opportunity to experience summer camp for the first time. The staff are part counsellors, part social workers, and the mission of the camp is to help children who have come from difficult situations to build social skills and to give and receive respect, while learning how to do things we take for granted, like swimming, canoeing, arts & crafts, sailing, windsurfing, baseball, basketball, tennis, and more. I would love to do more volunteer work there, and make it a yearly event.

I am very connected to Gabriola, one of the Gulf Islands in B.C. Being on Kawagama Island last week really made me realize that it was my first "Gabriola" and it planted the seeds for my connection with natural beauty, which always heals my soul. If you would like to check out the fabulous work being done there now, visit http://www.moorelands.org/wilderness-camp.php.

New York state of mind

2010-05-24T12:02:00.000-04:00

Amy and I drove to the New York area Thursday, and I am currently sitting at a Borders cafe in Danbury Connecticut waiting for Amy. New York area has an interesting vibe, which attracts and repels me at the same time. Where else can you visit three states within a half hour? We were visiting friends in Fort Lee New Jersey, crossed the George Washington Bridge into New York, then headed north to Connecticut where her brother and mother live.

There are definitely possibilities here. We have a lot of friends and relatives all over the place, from Manhatten to Westhampton to New Jersey to Connecticut. Amy has work potential if she wants. There is an active music scene (of course!). Action action action! So this attracts.

This area seems to really run on money. Either you have a lot and want more, or don't have enough and want more. People run and run and run (I thought Toronto was frenetic! It's sleepy in comparison). In the circles I have been moving, material concerns seem to dominate. Of course, I know there is everything here, but this is what seems to predominate.

Upon reflection, I realize that I am moving in the other direction. I think my favourite moments have been at brother-in-law Michael and Lisa's place outside of Stamford. Though I wouldn't say it is totally out in the woods, for the first time in a while I experienced the healing energy of quiet, trees and birds, and a beautiful peaceful natural environment. This is what I most crave, this is what puts me in touch with the divine energy, and this is where I most feel my soul. Nature is the easiest way to connect to the soul. We have been in Toronto for a while without leaving for "nature", and these few hours in "the woods" remind me of where my heart is.

So for me the trick is finding the balance between working for material and other gains, being busy trying to "accomplish", and having the time and space to be truly in the moment. They can happen together, but I tend to get caught up in the treadmill, and after a while my mind begins the loop of "I'm not doing enough, I'm not successful enough, I don't have enough, I'm not good enough" and so on.

Do you find that too?

I know I can find the stillness in Toronto, or Manhatten or Delhi or anywhere. I know that spirit is everywhere, always available, always present, and that I cover it up with mental energy and forget to access it wherever I am. So this is the work I am doing on myself, to always remember to tune into that healing natural divine energy wherever I am.

Looking forward to returning to Toronto later this evening. Also looking forward to my upcoming concert, video recording event June 5. Also looking forward to B.C. days coming soon! Lots of good stuff going on, and I need to remember!

Catching up

2010-05-12T12:37:00.001-04:00

Hello fellow bloggers and blog readers!

I have been remiss - haven't posted in weeks, and lots has been happening, so let's get up to date:

Musical activities have included coaching my students, which is fun and rewarding for me, and I hope for them too! I am learning as I teach, and each student has their own goals, desires, strengths and areas of weakness or lacking experience really. So I am trying to help them to strengthen those areas and enjoy themselves as much as possible. I would love to see this little practice grow, so any of you out there who play or sing and want to grow your music, individually or in little groups, please contact me and let's talk...

I led a little musical service at our synagogue - Darchei Noam - last Shabbat, featuring lots of Shlomo melodies, and stories about our experiences in India related to spirituality, teachers and the oneness of all beings. We also talked (it was really interactive) about how it is more difficult here in Toronto to openly talk or display our spiritual energies, outside of religious places, yoga, meditation classes and so on. And how even saying hello to people can connect our spirits together (thanks Amy!). I asked everyone to think about one teacher who has inspired them in their lives, and to talk a little about thatn and I spoke about many teachers who have helped me. We sang together, we took some time to breathe and be silent. It was a really nice experience for me (and hopefully for others). I hope to do it again.

I also was the "Wedding Pianist" for the daughter of a friend, whose main request was for the cocktail hour after the ceremony: "Bob Marley, Bob Marley, and Bob Marley". Well okay - it could be a lot worse! Of course, playing an hour of Marley tunes on solo piano, no microphone, 400 people, no vocals, is a little challenging, but I did get to work up 11 or 12 Marley tunes, which were fun to play. Hope everyone enjoyed them! Nice wedding too, sweet couple, lots of happiness! I wish them well! So I am opening up to more types of performance opportunities as I continue to focus on music as a means of living (is that an oxymoron?). Well, slowly slowly, and it's fun!

And I have this special concert coming up June 5 at Marigold Studios, with Andy Frank and his team coming in to record with 3 HD video cameras. So hopefully I will finally have some professional quality video of my tunes that I can post to the web and get out there a little further. Andy is with Roots Music Canada, a great organization with Andy and Dave Newland as main inspirational leaders. Check out rootsmusic.ca to see some of the great work they are doing to champion Canadian original music artists. I am getting more involved with this group, seeing if I can assist with sales and marketing initiatives. I think they really have something!

I also wanted to share that since my return from India, I have managed to keep a piece of that light alive - though it sometimes is hard to feel. I have deepened my Yoga practice, doing more daily, sitting to meditate daily, and remembering to breathe and be in that state during the day wherever I am as often as I can. This is making a real difference in my outlook on life and its ups and downs. When I tune into that space, everything is good, problems are not of the moment, only in the past and future, and now is perfect. So this is my practice. I am not a yogi! I break lots of yogi rules (whatever they are), but I do practice Yoga in many forms and it is an important part of my life. I highly recommend it!

So that's what I wanted to share today. Above: Pic of Amy, me and our grandson Oscar at the ROM in April. Speak soon!

Catching up

2010-04-18T10:24:00.000-04:00

I've been a recalcitrant blogger - I apologize. I will try to be more regular in my posts.

It's not that there isn't a lot happening. In fact I've been feeling overwhelmed by activity over the past couple of weeks. But this time of reflection and sharing is important for me, and there is lots to share, after all.

First of all, we had a really nice gig at The Annex Live last Saturday night, April 10. I debuted some new tunes and some new band members. Les Hoffman added his amazing guitar parts and excitement, and even pulled out a banjo for one tune (Sing for Your Supper). Ed Ham was excellent on the drums and vocals, and the energy was there with everyone including Dave McManus on bass and Shira Gellman on trombone vocals, and a little set of her tunes on guitar and vocals. And each of the other members did a tune, including a swinging Django Reinhart tune from Les that allowed be to pull out the fiddle for some gypsy licks, which is a lot of fun for me.

And it was a very good turnout too! I sense momentum building in my humble offerings, and it is gratifying to have so many friends show up and enjoy the music. I reconnected with a couple of people from my youth who came - I hadn't seen them in over thirty-five years! And this is happening more and more. In the past week I have reconnected with at least four people from high school days, and it feels like a flow is happening in this direction, which leads to more and more connections and so on. Great stuff! And the people who came represented four generations, from Muriel Silverman at 88 years old to my cousin Hanlan who is 11. She loves my CD, and I watched her singing along to A Love Like Yours. How great is that? Thanks to everyone who comes out to share this music! I truly appreciate your support, and your enjoyment sparks my enjoyment even more.

It is a creative time for me. I wasn't too worried about not writing songs all through last year. There were ideas, a couple of instrumentals, but the words got stuck. (See my blog post of Nov 10 called "Song trapped in my heart".) Through this period I remembered that creativity takes many forms, and that at the right time, the words will flow. And so they are. I am currently completing two new songs and a third is started, plus a new instrumental.

I am also growing this music coaching practice. I have a few students now, and am really enjoying this work. I am also offering group Music Workshops to put people together to play and learn music, so slowly slowly this is gaining momentum as well. And I am staying focused on music as my work, which is great in every way except financial. And I believe that this too will come! I am trying to remember to create and coach and perform and give and give and give, and not be too concerned about results and receiving. As we give, we receive, and the universe will provide.

Lastly, I am finally getting out of lone wolf mode and starting to connect with like-minded people involved with music, like my friend Andy Frank and my new friend Dave Newland of Roots Music Canada. These guys are true champions of Canadian independent music and musicians, and have created presence for us all through their web site, their wonderful video work and social networking expertise. I have met with them a couple of times now, and we are looking at developing a deeper working relationship, where I can offer them my services in a sales and marketing role in exchange for their help in video, social networking, and so on. Stay tuned. I am excited about this opportunity! These are "real" people who are doing it for the love of music and musicians, and support for their work is definitely growing. Check out http://www.rootsmusic.ca/.

Back at you soon! ~P

Reflections on Toronto

2010-04-01T15:14:00.000-04:00

We're baaack!

We returned from India in the middle of March, and now it's April! It took a couple of weeks to adjust, and I am really noticing the differences between my experience in India, and my experience here in Toronto.

My wife Amy always says hello to people everywhere. In an elevator, in the park, in stores, it doesn't matter. Sometimes I roll my eyes, but almost invariably, I see people light up with a genuine smile. I find that many people here in Toronto are hiding their light, and it takes someone like Amy to get them to let it out a little.

In India, in spite of material poverty, pollution, over-crowding, garbage everywhere, corruption and so on, people generally are bright-eyed and open (not as much in big cities I might add). They are smiling at us, the visitors, asking "What is your good name?", "What is your country?", "How are you enjoying India?", "Where have you been?". Genuine interest and friendliness for no other reason than to share a little spirit with us.

So without romanticizing or being to cheezy, wouldn't it be nice if we could all take a deep breath here in Toronto, and smile at each other! The light is here as much as it is there, but it's hidden by traffic jams, rushing around the rat race, worry, fear, anger and all the other negative factors that hide our light. Light is everywhere, so let's shine! This moment is beautiful, the past is done, and the future doesn't exist. Enjoy!

Kullu

2010-03-02T14:01:00.004-05:00

We took a local bus to Chandigarh from Rishikesh on Thursday afternoon, about 6 hours. Arrived at 7 pm to catch the “Deluxe Bus” from Chandigarh to Kullu overnight. Not a sleeper bus – they don’t seem to exist in the north, but deluxe nonetheless with soft seats that recline and your own space in the two seats you purchase. It was not to be. The bus which originates in Delhi was full, so we had the choice of the local bus overnight, or hire a taxi for 2000 Rs or so (around $50). We (perhaps foolishly) opted for the local bus. It was crammed! We got into the bus and there was no place to put our backpacks. We were told to bring them to our seats! So they stayed on the floor in the aisle beside our seats. We didn’t actually get the seats we purchased (another story) so spent the night uncomfortably, with very little sleep. We arrived in Kullu Friday morning at 5:30 am and spent the day recuperating with our friends Jerome and Beth.

Then came Saturday. We attended Saturday Satsang with the "Guru of Kullu", Swami Shyam. Beth and Jerome had told us how excited everyone was to meet us, but we were totally unprepared for the reception we received. First of all there were three or four people I knew from 35 – 38 years ago! My old classmate in first year French at U of T – Catherine (now Kholyani) has been in Kullu for more than 20 years! It was wonderful to see her again. She in fact was one reason I went to Gabriola the first time, and Gabriola was the first place I heard about Swami Shyam and “Shyamspace”.

Well to say we were guests of honour does not nearly describe the experience. When Swami emerged the first thing he said was “Hello everyone, who is here visiting us today?” And Beth came up to the podium area and introduced Amy and me and expressed her excitement at having us there. Then Jerome came up to express his welcome, then another dozen people, all with various connections to us, either direct or very indirect came up to offer welcome. Then Amy was invited up, then I, offering flowers to Swamiji. It was overwhelming and very emotional for me. I could not imagine the energy that was being showered on Amy and me. There was so much joy and love and excitement, I can't remember ever experiencing a welcome like that.

And Swami spoke for about an hour, and it seemed that he reflected on our being here and the words we had spoken, and incorporated them into his Satsang. He laughed a lot, told stories and offered wisdom of the oneness of all. It is the same message we receive over and over and over – there is one message, and that is that the real self is not this body, mind, or personality. The real self is eternal, unborn, undying, forever blissful and always there and available to access in the stillness. Each teacher along the way expresses it differently, but the message is the same. We are one, there is only the one pure love, everything else is transitory, illusory, not totally real. And the more we can use the tools to tune into that one space, the more true happiness and peace we can experience.

Of course, I am not the kind of person who surrenders my will to another person, or who worships a human being, be it a realized being or not. Still, I truly appreciate being in the presence of these teachers who seem to experience that state of bliss all the time, and who help us to attain that space as well.

After Satsang, Swamiji invited several of us to tea, so we had another couple of hours of enjoyment and learning. By the end of that time, I felt blasted, light-headed, wobbly. I knew I had to go slowly, as my legs were a little like jelly. It was just so much energy all at once, I was overwhelmed! We went across the street (not far thankfully) and had some soup and other food which helped bring me back to earth. What a day!

Sunday was the festival of Holi. It is a big party, sort of like Hindu Purim (which by the way also starts today! Funny about that!). The Indian men get very drunk, cover each other with colourful powders and coloured water, and generally go crazy for the day. We were warned to stay indoors! And so we had our own little party and quiet time, which was much needed. In the evening we will celebrate Holi with Swami, play some music and as always, enjoy Satsang. It seems that whenever people get together here, it is an opportunity for Satsang, or “The Company of Truth”. And so the topic almost always gets around to the pure spirit of love that exists always and forever. Not a bad topic for discussion! I am really enjoying being in this space and continuing to experience the deepening of the practice of accessing the soul’s state of bliss. What could be better than that?

Oddities

2010-02-23T06:49:00.003-05:00

Rishikesh:

1) I bought some bananas and oranges from a stall, cost 40 Rs. I gave him 100 Rs, and he didn’t have change. He walked over to one of the beggars sitting on the steps nearby to get change.
2) We happen to have a television in our hotel room. I woke up yesterday around 7 am to watch the last two periods of the Canada U.S. Olympic hockey game (we lost!). Watching the Vancouver Olympics in Rishikesh!
3) I am starting to recognize some of the cows.
4) Lakshman Jhula is a beautiful hanging footbridge that takes you from the west bank to the east bank of the Ganges. It is about 2 metres wide, and can get crowded with people coming and going. And with motorcycles, freely wandering cows and monkeys trying to get through!

5) We go most mornings for Satsang with Prem Baba, a guru who is from Brazil, speaks Portuguese with English translation, and who also incorporates Brazilian Shamanic traditions in his teachings.

What a world! What a life!

Yoga

2010-02-21T02:04:00.003-05:00

I missed a Yoga class this morning, so I decided to practice on my own, on the roof our hotel, overlooking the Ganges (not too hard to take!). I realize how much my Yoga practice is deepening since I have been in India. And Yoga is not only asanas (postures) and stretching. For me, Yoga is breathing, chanting, meditation, selfless service, purification, contemplation, concentration, stretching, and more! So it is life changing for me.

Ever since our time in Kochi where I did daily classes with Yoga Master Sajee, I feel different. First of all, I feel my body is more open and relaxed. I can stretch more than ever and do some difficult positions with ease and relaxation. My breathing is also more open, I am more conscious of my breathing. The chanting I have been doing is sticking in my mind. With no instruments available for me to play, I find myself singing the chants we repeated for many minutes. Also some Hebrew melodies come into my head. I sat at a beautiful spot on the Ganges by some rapids, and started singing some of my own songs. Meditation is easier, and happens during the regular day, much of the time.

Of course, I still lose it! There have been some crazy moments here, and it's not all bliss and grooviness. But overall, the effect on me has been powerful and positive. I am opening up to life, my heart is open, and I believe that if I follow my heart, my highest intuition, my highest self, I will find the best path for me to pursue in my life at this time. I am still concerned about making money, working, dealing with all the ups and downs of life in Canada, and I am hoping I can maintain this clearer space, with work and concentration of course, when we return in March.

Life is wonderful, there is so much love, I am so thankful for my life. I am so thankful for this adventure with my wonderful partner Amy, and for the growth we are both experiencing, together and separately. As Prem Baba said: "God comes to you when you are alone. God is in the silence, the solitude. And relationships are the university of life". Amen! Swaha!

The Jam

2010-02-20T00:21:00.000-05:00

Well it’s a good thing I know my scales a little bit as I was slowly able to catch on with his prodding as to when I was supposed to “fly”, and I was for the most part able to stay with the scale without too many flubs. I did the best I could, and they applauded my efforts.

I started the evening facing the other musicians across the circle. After the first few they beckoned me to sit in the middle of their group. And so it went. I could follow pretty well for the most part, and it was great fun.

There I was playing a squeaky ¾ size child’s violin with no rosin on the bow, trying to keep up to these guys, for whom these strange snaking melodies are simple as breathing! What a learning experience!

I’m sure glad I had a fiddle to play – definitely the right instrument to attempt ragas in that gathering!

I remember someone asking me if I planned to study Indian music during our time here. It hadn’t really occurred to me, and I think I answered that I would probably be more involved in Western music, with some exposure to Indian music as well. Well, I did learn a lot about Indian music and the raga form.

The picture below is also from that night, Alycia our Yoga buddy and “adopted” daughter from Vancouver, Amy and Sajee the Yoga Master.

Rishikesh

2010-02-19T23:38:00.003-05:00

The north is very different, and Rishikesh is amazing. A friend told us we had to go to Rishikesh, it is “the Jerusalem of India”. Now I can see what she meant, though for me, it reminds me more of Tzfat. It is absolutely beautiful, surrounded by high green hills, and divided by the flowing green waters of the Ganges, the holiest river in India. And because it is near the source of the river, the Himalaya mountains, it is clean and clear – good healing water. Rishikesh is a dichotomy, with literally hundreds of temples, ashrams and Yoga and Meditation centres. It attracts spiritual seekers from all over India and the world. And so, it also attracts a Disneyland of commercialization. Can you imagine? The Ashram Store, The Third Eye Café (sounds appetizing), shops and kiosks wall to wall, “sadhus” grabbing you to apply a coloured bindi to your forehead before asking for 100 Rupees. Fake Yogis, dozens of sadhus begging at every temple. Rishiskesh is a trip.

I love it here, and could easily spend longer than the few days to a week we have. Yesterday we met our first guru in India, Prem Baba, who delivered a beautiful satsang in Portuguese with an English translator. He is from Brazil, and combines Brazilian Shamanic traditions with Hindu practice. His energy was absolutely beautiful, his smile was completely open, and I really got a buzz from him and from the energy of the people who came to see him. There were at least ten people playing instruments and chanting, people dancing, just a ton of good energy. We’ll go again this morning.

We also had a good yoga class at an ashram near the hotel where we are staying. There are many ashram possibilities and we are considering spending three days in one.

Rishikesh is a very holy city, a power spot. Last night we attended Ganga Arti, which is a nightly ceremony on the banks of the Ganges. About ten people lead prayers and chants amplified for everyone around to hear. Then, candles and lamps are lit, and many are set afloat on the Ganges as the ceremony ends. It reminded me of the Jewish Tashlich ceremony during High Holidays where we cast bread crumbs into the river to release our sins. Beautiful.

The food is all vegetarian, and delicious! There is no alcohol here. There is no western music anywhere. I met a musician from Italy and we are trying to find a way to jam together, but many ashrams and gathering places are not open to anything but sacred music.

Today we are going with a Spanish woman we met yesterday and an Indian man she knows to experience Kumbh Mela in Haridwar, about 30 kms away. Kumbh Mela happens every four years in different holy spots, and this year it is in Haridwar. Over a million pilgrims come at some point between mid January and mid April. Today is a special day, with bathing in the Ganges the main focus. It will be a mob scene, but since we happen to be here at this time, I really want to experience it at least for the day. Then we’ll escape back to the relative quiet of Rishikesh.

Ashram Experience

2010-02-18T02:48:00.003-05:00

Amy and I rented a motorcycle (Royal Enfield) to be exact for 400 Rs/day (about $10). We traveled 3 1/2 hours to Neyyar Dam from Varkala, avoiding buses rickshaws potholes and animals along the way. We planned to spend two nights at the Sivananda Yoga Ashram, since we had to get back to Varkala to catch an early train three days later.

When we arrived, we were informed that the minimum stay is three nights, so we had to pay for three nights. There was a lot of paperwork, including pages of policies, procedures and rules that put me off. Nevertheless we had gone to a lot of trouble and effort to get there, so we signed on.

The Ashram is beautiful, next to a fresh water reservoir (hence Neyyar Dam), surrounded by lush hills. There is an Lion Safari Park across the lake, and as we did our yoga class on a pad by the lake we could hear the lions calling. The day is quite full and busy, wake up at 5:30, Meditation and Chanting and Satsang from 6-7:30, then tea, then yoga from 8 - 10 am, then brunch in a dining hall, sitting on the floor and eating satvic vegetarian food with our right hand. After brunch comes Karma Yoga (Selfless Service), where we volunteer to do chores - I helped sweep and wash the floors of the dining hall. A little free time - we went swimming. Then a lecture on Yoga from 2-3:30 pm, another Yoga class from 3:30 - 5:30. Dinner at 6, Satsang, Meditation and Chanting 8 - 9:30, lights out at 10.

I was starting to get into the swing of things, the Yoga was great, it was wonderful to chant and meditate with hundreds of people. There were things I loved, and there were things I had problems with. For one thing, I am not a Hindu, and there is a ton of Hindu practice going on, including prostrations to various deities, as well as to people who are either teachers or sadhus at the Ashram. Not for me. And the restrictions on coming and going were also a problem. We had to fill out paperwork and get an "Out Pass" before the security guard at the gate would let us out. We were not allowed to leaved Satsang in the middle, had to stay till the end, and so on.

What was great was doing Yoga so intensively, and by Yoga I mean practicing the eight limbs, not just physical. There is a strong spiritual element and a lot of focus on mind control. And though I was unfamiliar and even a little uncomfortable with all the Sanskrit chanting, I have been chanting to myself ever since we left - a real earworm. "Om Namo Bhagavate Vasudevaya..." So it's powerful stuff!

We got a good taste, not sure if I would return, but we will have an opportunity to visit several ashrams here in Rishikesh to check them out. I understand that some allow you to come and go as you please, and to participate as you wish. Still rules of conduct I am sure, but that will likely work better for me.

So yes, we have left the south of India, which was not easy! I love the south of India. We took a rickshaw to a train to a rickshaw to a plane to a rickshaw to an overnight train to Haridwar to a rickshaw to Rishikesh! 27 hours total. It is Kumbh Mela time in this region, and a million pilgrims are expected in Hardiwar. Thousands of large tents set up in camps as we drove through this morning, the largest religious festival in the world which happens every four years. This year it's Hardiwar. It was cold here this morning, but now it's sunny and warm. We are recuperating today, catching up, and checking out the sites of Rishikesh.

Stay tuned...

More to come...

Varkala

2010-02-13T09:35:00.001-05:00

Arrived in Varkala. From place to place everything is arranged. Our host Matthew in Allepei calls his friend with a Home Stay in Varkala, he’s full, but his neighbour has room, 500 Rs with balcony, bathroom, overlooking quite Odayam Beach to the north of the tourist strip of Varkala Beach. So we have a place to stay before we arrive, the rickshaw drive wants 80 Rs, should be 60 but whatever… Sunil our host at Sona Home Stay greets us and shows us a beautiful rook overlooking the beach. He offers coffee tea, small breakfast, water, and helps us with anything we need. Really nice person. Everyone is nice!

The over-riding feeling is how good the people are. Total strangers smile with a warmth and friendliness that is genuine. And time and time again, people are completely honest in their dealings with us (except maybe that rickshaw driver, but 80 Rupees is $2 for God’s sake!), and sincerely wanting to help us however they can.

There is a richness in the culture of India that is evident as you walk around, almost everywhere we have been so far. It is infused with spirit, with regular open displays of prayer, outdoor temples, great churches and cathedrals, mosques, everywhere. The call to prayer is broadcast everywhere, even at 4:30 in the morning. Today on our balcony I listened to the Imam deliver his Friday sermon which went on for at least 45 minutes – in Malayalam of course. I wish I could understand Malayalam. I really want to know what he was saying. At one point he reached a crescendo as he thundered home the most important message to the faithful (and me). It was a little like an Evangelical preacher going wild.

Anyhow it’s over now. All quiet on the southern point of India, on the Arabian Sea.

Kumily

2010-02-10T06:32:00.000-05:00

Kumily is a little town in the mountains about 6 hours east of Cochin. There are three places here all together – Kumily, where most of the home stays and restaurants are, Periyar National Park which is over 700 sq. kms. of nature reserve, and Thekkady where the entrance to the park is and where there are elephant centres. It is a very beautiful and peaceful place. We are staying at the Rainbow Cottage which is Home Stay painted in gaudy rainbow colours, quite luxurious really, with a big nice bed, private bath with hot shower, satellite TV, with a “Homely Cooking” café that provides food, coffee and so on, and an Internet Café. Cost per night – 500 Rupees (around $12). We can sit on the roof and watch the sunset and the nightly migration of thousands of fruit bats, coming from the forest and heading who knows where. We can see the bustle of activity around the village, while sitting in a very peaceful spot. The air is clear and not humid, it is cool at night, and really pleasant.

That being said, there are several things about this place that are a little annoying. It is kind of a tourist trap. You can go for an elephant ride for 300 Rupees for a half hour and have your photo taken riding the elephant (see below), or for 750 Rupees you can also help bathe the elephants. It seems a little contrived, and it’s hard to really relate to these huge, beautiful animals. I felt a little ripped off.

Today we went on an early morning three hour trek into the park to see animals. It was difficult, lots of heavy climbing, and we were exhausted by the end of it. We saw some black monkeys in the trees, lots of birds and insects, and piles of elephant shit and black bear shit. No other animals though. Cost – 900 Rupees for two people. Again, I felt a little ripped off. Still it was a beautiful jungle walk, and a gorgeous spot, especially at the top of the mountain (see below). Both Amy and I feel the vibes here are a little less honest and sincere than Cochin for example.

So we will spend the day relaxing, maybe an outing to tea and spice plantations, then tomorrow head out to Kottayam for the backwater cruise. Stay tuned!

Chauvinism

2010-02-08T06:40:00.000-05:00

I am still working on reducing my prejudices and chauvinism. I have had this concept that we in the western world are more advanced than those in “developing” countries. I suppose there is truth in that in some respects. Still, it is amazing to be on this bus driving through the hills through towns and villages and seeing signs like “Computer Training – MCSE, CCSP, C, C++, Java, PHP”, or “Fatima Centre for Spinal Cord Regeneration”, Universities, Science Centres, Research Centres for Eco-Farming, Eye Care Hospitals. Everywhere!

I wanted to replace my prescription eyeglasses that I lost (that’s another story!). I went to an Eye Clinic in Mattancharry, and had an examination by a woman eye doctor. She was very pleasant, professional, and obviously well trained. The exam was very similar to the ones I have at my eye doctor in Toronto, though there was no computerized equipment. She tried various lenses manually until I could read the chart most clearly, and like my doctor in Toronto, she notices a yellowing of the lens indicating the start of early cataracts. I received a prescription for correcting my near-sightedness and astigmatism. The cost – 150 Rupees ($6.00!). I ordered medium quality attractive frames and good lenses with anti-scratch coating, cost – 6080 Rupees, about $150, and they are just fine!

Of course it’s not all the same here. One gentleman suggested that Fort Cochin would not be a good place to have a sudden illness emergency. He said you wouldn’t want to visit the local hospital, so you would need an ambulance to take you across two bridges to the hospital in Ernakulam. Apparently there is no medical care in the ambulance; it’s basically a taxi with a bed. So about an hour later with no medical help you might get to the decent hospital. I guess it’s good to avoid medical emergencies in many places in India.

Kumily

2010-02-08T06:36:00.002-05:00

So we will spend the day relaxing, maybe an outing to tea and spice plantations, then tomorrow head out to Kottayam for the backwater cruise. Stay tuned!

The Jam

2010-02-07T00:27:00.004-05:00

One evening after yoga (and dinner!) our teacher Sajee invited some of his musical friends over “to jam”. I didn’t know what to expect. Earlier, Sajee presented me with his daughter’s violin and asked me to change the strings so I could play it. It was a ¾ size fiddle, with a bow that may never have touched rosin. The men came with harmonium, tabla, some wooden flutes and beautiful voices. After an initial “tune-up” improvisation I played in D minor, one man informed me that they would play a raga in C# minor. Now C# minor is very difficult for me to play on the fiddle, so I kind of droned along. After the first raga was finished, he said that for South Indian music, C# is the most natural key, and they mostly play black notes on the harmonium, not white. He suggested I tune the fiddle down a half step so I could play in my more natural D scale. That made a huge difference. Next he schooled me in the raga form, showing me the scale of each raga, having me repeat after him. Then he would say: “This is the BG so now go ahead!” as if I had a clue what “BG” meant. After a while I gathered that BG signifies the main them of the raga, and is used to introduce the melody on a melody instrument – fiddle, harmonium, flute, etc.

Well it’s a good thing I know my scales a little bit as I was slowly able to catch on with his prodding as to when I was supposed to “fly”, and I was for the most part able to stay with the scale without too many flubs. I did the best I could, and they applauded my efforts.

I started the evening facing the other musicians across the circle. After the first few they beckoned me to sit in the middle of their group. And so it went. I could follow pretty well for the most part, and it was great fun.

There I was playing a squeaky ¾ size child’s violin with no rosin on the bow, trying to keep up to these guys, for whom these strange snaking melodies are simple as breathing! What a learning experience!

I’m sure glad I had a fiddle to play – definitely the right instrument to attempt ragas in that gathering!

I remember someone asking me if I planned to study Indian music during our time here. It hadn’t really occurred to me, and I think I answered that I would probably be more involved in Western music, with some exposure to Indian music as well. Well, I did learn a lot about Indian music and the raga form.

The picture below is also from that night, Alycia our Yoga buddy and “adopted” daughter from Vancouver, Amy and Sajee the Yoga Master.

Still in Kochi (Cochin)

2010-02-03T04:54:00.003-05:00

We thought we would stay three four days, and here we are staying for a week! It's such a great place to be, it's hard to leave!

Today we visited the Paradesi Synagogue in Jew Town (really!), built in 1656 and still active as a museum and as a synagogue with services Friday night and Saturday and holidays. Only 5 families remain, apparently elderly, so they don't always have a minyan. Orthodox, women upstairs, the whole bit. Don't know if we will stay to partake, but seeing the Synagogue was great.

We have daily yoga classes with Sajee. He is bending me in all directions, beyond what I think I can do! Gentle, wise, emphasizing the spiritual life and aspect of yoga, which I love! Three hour classes daily - who knew I would want to do that? Then dinner together, satvic vegetarian food, delicious and home cooked! What an experience this has been!

I plan to go for a second Ayurvedic massage before we head onwards. The first one was wonderful, full body with warm oils, long strokes, not too much deep work, though he used his fingernails on points on the soles of my feet which was very intense! And some work on my right leg, thigh and calf was also painful. Then 15 minutes of steam in a steambox. The treatment was about an hour and a quarter, and cost 800 Rs (about $20).

Amy and I have bicycles rented for 50 Rs a day, and it's a great way to get around, though it's a little hairy with the drivers sometimes! Careful careful...

We saw a concert of classical South Indian music, with Vina (ancestor of the sitar) and Tabla. Amazing players, and sometimes both Amy and I thought the Vina player was rocking out! A bit of Clapton, Hendrix, others...great!

I am so impressed with the people here. Cochin is known for its diversity and tolerance, with over 30 religions and cultures peacefully coexisting for a long long time. Though of course they keep trying to sell you stuff, and will try to get as much as they can, overall, almost everyone is very honest, friendly, open to help, and just plain wonderful! Story: I went on an errand to pay for two more days of Amy's bike rental. I paid the wrong place! 100 Rupees for two days. This morning I went back, and before I said a word, the man said: "There's a mistake, I counted the bikes and your bike was not from here." And he handed me the 100 Rupees. I didn't ask. I said to him: "You know this place is so great, most people are completely honest. I trusted you last night with 100 Rupees to give to your brother, and I trusted you would return it today, and I was right to trust you. Thank you!"

Onwards and upwards.

Fort Cochin Sunday

2010-01-31T12:05:00.005-05:00

Fort Cochin is a beautiful little town on the shores of the Arabian Sea in Kerala. It is part of the larger Cochin, which includes the bustling Ernakulum (over 1 million people), Mattanchary which has spice and other markets and which includes Jew Town, the old Jewish Quarter from the 1500’s. There is an ancient synagogue there that we will have yet to visit.

We arrived by rickshaw, and our driver didn’t know his way around Fort Cochin, so he stopped at a rickshaw stand and asked another driver for directions. The other driver was Shameer, born and raised in Fort Cochin, and he proceeded to jump in and offer to help us find a place to stay. He took us to Daffodil Home Stay, a beautiful home with six rooms on the second floor set up as guest lodging. I think it is the most beautiful accommodation we have had so far, though very pricey (almost $20 a night!) It’s a large spotless room with a big comfortable bed, chest of drawers, bedside tables, nice bathroom with shower, screens on some of the windows, and a big ceiling fan. Luxurious! Of course, there are rooms with A/C but they are much more expensive (maybe $30 a night). Shameer was wonderful, and wouldn’t accept any money though he helped us for almost an hour. Instead, he offered his services as a guide the next day, and we happily agreed. His charge – 50 rupees an hour ($1.25).

Yesterday we went to Mattanchary with Shameer. First we visited a large Jain Temple, where we sat and watched a group of Jain “tourists” from Bombay offering prayers and song. It was a beautiful space, with a huge birdhouse outside the main temple. One of the central tenets of Jainism is non-violence and protection of all living things, including insects (I couldn’t do it, too many mosquitoes here). So the birds really like it there.

He took us to the big spice market, the wholesalers who distribute around the world. There were whole yards filled with ginger drying in the sun, cloves, cardamom, anise, cinnamon, Ayurvedic herbs, tree barks, pepper black and white, teas and more. It was a huge space filled to the rafters by hand, no forklifts or other machinery other than scales. We also visited an essential oils shop across the road and purchased a little bottle of Kerala flower oil. Then we were off to the Portuguese Museum. Fort Cochin was colonized by the Portuguese in the 15th century, later by the Dutch, then the British. There are elements of all three cultures, along with the indigenous Indian Keralan culture, which is very rich.

We watched a performance of Kathakali, which is a combination of dance, music and mime, dramatizing the stories of Ram, Krishna and so on. The makeup takes over an hour to put on, and the skill of the performers is amazing. The wiggle of an eyebrow indicates an emotion; the hands are used as a form of sign language. The music consists of drummers, hand cymbals, harmonium drone and a singer who narrates the story. Fascinating.

We have been in three states in India (not including our first night in Bombay). Each one has its own language, culture and foods. They all share commonalities, including incredible open friendly curiosity and welcome. Yesterday at sunset I walked alone to the beach area bustling with activity, then around the main road by the water. I got lost, and people helped me get back to the area I was looking for. A young boy walked with me asking in halting English where I was from and whether there was cricket there (the important stuff). People are so nice! Of course they will try to get money from you, rupees are very hard for them to come by, but once you negotiate, they accept your offer and are most happy to help. I have felt so comfortable here, so little fear, it is really a wonderful place to be.

We have decided to stay at least three or four more days, as Amy continues Ayurvedic treatments and we continue with daily Yoga sessions. We found a Yoga Master here named Sajee, really amazing, three hour classes combining Hatha Yoga, meditation, pranayama, and Satsang.

On Om Beach, Gokarna, India

2010-01-28T03:41:00.002-05:00

Another perspective: it’s amazing how much garbage is everywhere, plastic bottles in big piles on the beach and in the woods, butts and wrappers and papers and wire and other plastic all over the place. Nobody thinks about picking it up at all. I don’t know if there is a landfill or recycling depot being used at all, but it sure doesn’t look like it.

There are so many poor people all over India. For 50 Rupees each (just over a dollar), a few workers could easily clean up the whole area. I just don’t understand why it’s acceptable to dump garbage everywhere! Perhaps they would just take it all to one spot and dump it there. Instant landfill.

Anyhow I was happy to see a group of people yesterday wearing gloves and picking up garbage off the beach. Don’t know who they were or if they were being paid, but I was very heartened to see at least an awareness of the importance of cleaning up!

And that is not to mention the cows and dogs and water buffalo and chickens that wander freely. While they also add to the pollution with their shit, they eat a lot of garbage too, especially the pigs. I must say I haven’t seen pigs or monkeys since we arrived here at Gokarna. But the animals and the people really coexist everywhere. A cow will come over to our blanket on the beach, seeking gifts (food I guess). The dogs too, quite aggressive in a friendly way. A young cow was particularly interested in Amy (picture attached), and was difficult to dissuade. Cute and obnoxious at the same time. Anyhow, after a while he moved on. The water buffalo stream through in the morning and back in the evening, sleek and somewhat moose-like in their faces, very beautiful.

Major problems I see in India – there are two that really stick out: poverty and pollution.

Major attributes: lots! Beauty, warm spirit, yoga, healing, meditation, nature. Then there’s excellent food and drink, entertainment and lots of travellers to meet and talk with. Some stay for weeks or months in a beach town, hanging out meeting others from around the world, exploring the area and chilling. Don’t know how long I could last in a place like this, probably a few days is enough. I could see spending longer in Hampi though. We didn’t get to visit the amazing caves with ancient art painted and inlaid into the rock. The whole cave world around Hampi is a highlight we will have to see next visit (God willing!).

This afternoon we are on to our next adventure: sleeper train south to Kochin, Kerala. Our Kerala time begins. Looking forward to backwaters, Ayurvedic treatments, Amma’s Ashram, elephants and nature reserve time, and even more beaches! And I understand the food in Kerala is spectacular.

Till next time!

On the Beach - Om Beach, Gokarna, India

2010-01-28T03:26:00.003-05:00

Major problems I see in India – there are two that really stick out: poverty and pollution.

Till next time!

Goa to Hampi - an Indian adventure!

2010-01-22T06:17:00.002-05:00

So when you drive up Hwy 400 towards Barrie, sometimes the traffic slows to a stop, you sit for a couple of minutes, crawl for an hour, then suddenly it's all clear! Why is that? There's no accident, construction or anything else - what a pain, right?

So here's the Indian version: We leave Aramol by local bus around 3 pm, takes an hour or so to get to Mapusa, a bustling town where we catch the overnight sleeper to Hampi bus leaving at 6 pm. The bus arrives, with double bunks throughout, really pretty comfortable. Amy and I settle into the top bunk, and our friend Leita takes the bottom. We begin...

Sometime after Margao, we notice a ton of trucks lined up on the other side of the road. By ton, I mean thousands and thousands! I thought they were parked for the night, and that was kind of true. A few minutes later, we stopped. A half hour later I went outside and saw that traffic was completely jammed in both directions. It is after midnight now. The driver goes to sleep. I realize that every vehicle in both directions is occupied. After about an hour, a man with a stick (!) comes down the line of traffic hitting each vehicle and calling out to wake up the drivers. We start moving. Okay then. About 100 metres further, we stop. Driver goes to sleep. Nobody knows why. An hour later, the man with the stick wakes us to move forward another 100 metres. This goes on ALL NIGHT! I imagine that between midnight and 7 am we travelled maybe a couple of kilometres. Then at a certain point, traffic starts moving and we are on our way. Our 12 hour bus ride was supposed to arrive at Hampi at 6 am, and actually arrived at 7 pm. 25 hours!

There is no logic, there is no point in trying to understand or change it, we must just flow with it! The good news is it was quite comfortable, and we were all able to sleep at least several hours. And I read and listened to music, read the Times of India, looked out at the varying landscape. As we pass through every town, people call out to us, wave and smile. We are really something weird and wonderful in those buses!

Last day in Arambol

2010-01-18T07:55:00.002-05:00

So it's Monday Jan 18, we've been in Arambol since Wed. night, and it's time for our trip into "the real India". And even though Arambol is more world travellers than Indians, it has been a fantastic five days of decompressing, getting over jet lag, hanging out with our friend Leita, and finding our way around this cool little beach town.

Today we walked around past the end of this beach, past beautiful rock formations to the next beach to the north. And right beside that beach is a little sweet water lake, so we camped out under a palm branch and swam in the lake and rested and read and talked and ate and drank, avocado and cheese and tomatoes and onion and bread and passion fruit and beer and... Definitely not at all hard to take.

We will take some new friends out to dinner tonight, they have been welcoming and hospitable to us. There is live music and Italian food waiting.

Tomorrow we take a bus to Margao, then an overnight "sleeper" bus with beds to Hampi, which is inland the next state south of Goa, Karnataka. There are amazing ruins and rock formations there, and it's supposed to be fantastic. I'll let you know...

We are realizing that travel time and distances are long and far in India, and we have to stay aware of not trying to cover too many places, or else we could get really run down. So slowly gradually we are heading south towards Kerala and more adventures.

Arambol is a little bit strange, with a real scene of travellers and "expats" who spend six months a year here, some since the 60's. There's one dude who sings at the jam night at Loekie's where I have played twice who is almost 80, has been here since the sixties, and sings songs like "Love Life" and "Love is a Gift" and so on with a little button accordion. He gets everyone going... I ran into him just now on the path to this Internet Cafe, and we hugged and shared appreciations for each other's gifts. Very cool...

There is a strong Yoga, Meditation, Ayurveda and healing arts focus. Also lots of drinking and charra smoking and general carousing. Some of it is genuine, some not so much. We met a beautiful Indian yoga instructor named Balu, who was definitely a wonderful and humble teacher. We see other people dressed like ninja gurus, looking like they are on the hunt. Sweet and gentle locals, and others that scowl and pester and hawk stuff you don't want at you repeatedly on the beach. If I wanted a taxi I would ask for one!

The roads are shared with Brahma cows, some pigs and dogs, walkers bikes scooters motorcycles cars vans trucks autorickshaws and buses, all trying to squeeze into the same two inches. Rules are nothing, horns are everything!

So many experiences already, and we are just beginning!

Second India Post

2010-01-15T03:56:00.000-05:00

We are starting to settle into the scene at Arambol a little. Our friend Leita is a great person to hang with, and she has spent four winters in the area and around India, so she knows what’s going on, and has been very helpful with advice and tips and tricks. So far everything has been pretty smooth, sleep is a little uneven, but we can nap if we want so it’s not too hard to take.

Today is Friday, and through Dylan, the owner of the best coffee shop in town, we heard about a Jewish community right here in Arambol. Bretzlav Jews from Israel have established a “Bait Yehudi” right off the main strip, and so we dropped by to say hello yesterday, and were immediately invited for Kabbalat Shabbat this evening. Apparently they play lots of music (not on Shabbat, only voices) and are very joyful so we are looking forward to spending our first Shabbat evening with them.

Besides that, we are trying to decide how long to stay here and possible next moves. We could easily hang here for a week, not too hard to take at all, but I think Leita has a little adventure in mind, so we shall see.

So far no real health issues (knock on wood!), though I do get some sniffles periodically, not sure why, it’s not a cold. Stomach is fine so far (knock on wood!), being very careful with water. The food is excellent here, and it’s even okay to have salads and tomatoes and such in some of the restaurants. This place really caters to the “tourists”, though some of those tourists have been here for thirty years! Last night there was a jam at a restaurant, and one of the performers is almost eighty and has been here since the 60’s. He played a little accordion and sang some “hippy” songs “Live Life” was one, a little cheesy but at the same time pretty cool. The lineup was a real mixture of folky players, then one crazy guy dressed like Elvis who did a medley including Tobacco Road, In a Gadda Da Vida (!), People are Strange, Light My Fire, and on and on (get the hook!). There was a swing band with an Armenian, a Ukrainian and a German violinist. There was a French “dude” (his words) who kind of barged on stage and wanked for a while, so it was a real mix. I played three guitar songs early, and people sang along and were very appreciative. A lively crowd for sure!

Amy’s off to an Ashtanga Yoga class this morning, which is a little too strenuous for me, so I will walk the beach, get a little organized, and meet her and Leita at Dylan’s around 11 am.

This is such a great place to land, unwind and get used to being in India. It’s kind of in between the “real” India and a beach hangout that really could be anywhere – reminds me of Santa Theresa in Costa Rica, places in Mexico, and so on. The waters are warm, the beach is beautiful and sandy, the weather is great, and I just feel very fortunate and blessed to be able to be here. I highly recommend it!

When you think about it, if you could save up a few thousand dollars, you could easily spend a winter here, no problem. It’s not so hard to take! And especially if you are interested in Yoga, Meditation, Healing Arts, Ayurveda, music, art, etc., it’s a great place to be!

1st post from India!

2010-01-14T12:47:00.002-05:00

Well, here we are! Amy and flew from Toronto to Brussels, Brussels to Mumbai. Left Toronto at 6:25 pm arrived in Mumbai next day at 11:30 pm! Stayed near the airport at the Iskcon Guest House - address Hare Krishna Land (really!) - Juhu. Juhu is a suburb of Mumbai, and the guest house was very nice, hot shower, etc. We walked around the area in the morning, tried to get my Blackberry unlocked so we could put a SIM card in it (unsuccesful) and experienced the autorickshaw driving in Mumbai traffic! Unbelievable - lanes? Traffic lights? No matter!
Anyhow we survived, and got back to the airport in time to fly to Goa, taxi to Arambol beach, found a nice guest house for $10 a night, near our friend Leita's. Spent today with Leita, walking around the town, learning the ropes, getting over some jet lag. Hatha Yoga class at 4 pm, visited the beach for sunset, then played an open stage at a restaurant. It's 11:30 here, and time for bed.
First impressions? It's a wonderful place here, most people are incredibly sweet, and so far everything has gone smoothly (well almost everything). We have a cell phone now, and are sending out the number to our kids so they can be in touch. Tomorrow is another day! I will have more time and energy to write another time. Good night!

2010-01-11T11:10:00.002-05:00

Amy and Paul's Big Adventure!

So today we leave to visit "Grandmother" India! We will be traveling and living for two months there, exploring culture, history, Ayurveda, Yoga, Meditation, music, friends, ashrams, and more. It's been overwhelming getting ready, and I feel a combination of elation, excitement, nervousness and anticipation. Here we go!

We had a fine going away gig on Saturday evening at The Annex Live, with Shira, Richard Keelan, Joey Goldstein and Derek Downham. A nice turnout of family and friends (thank you for you support), and a great evening of music! Good way to celebrate the start of a new journey.

I will try to blog periodically as we go along, and Amy has her blog too: http://amyblock-livingintentionally.blogspot.com/.

So take care friends, be well, and we will be in touch!

~Paul

2009-12-14T12:52:00.003-05:00

It's been a busy couple of weeks of music! Since I embarked on this new journey of music as a career (for the second time in my life) it has been a slow process of building activities, and I believe the momentum is now building. Of course Amy and I are about to depart for India in January so that will put a hold on Toronto activities for a couple of months. Nevertheless it has been a very busy and rewarding time here. Music Night at Darchei Noam on Dec. 5 was a great success, with 170 people showing up, to my utter amazement and appreciation! And the music was special with my regular "posse" and some added congregational members adding their musical touches. So that was the first gig. On Dec. 9 I had the honour of serenading the dinosaurs at a corporate gig for Annie DiMilo (singer) at the ROM. Then on Dec. 12 Paul Gellman Band rocked at the Axis. That plus coaching my students has made the time very productive. So perhaps this is a sign of things to come! I am letting you and everyone know that I am available to help in all kinds of musical projects, either as bandleader, musical director, sideman (sideperson sounds lame), accompanist, arranger, producer, session man, coach, teacher, whatever!!! Well almost whatever...

The truth is, while I won't likely get rich doing it, I gain many riches from the work, doing something I love, and spreading the knowledge and experience to others. So this is a great thing!

Other than that, I am focused on preparing for the Voyage to India, doing research, planning, visas, inoculations, etc. We are getting excited, and trust this will be a great adventure! I have dreamed of visiting India since I was a teenager, and both Amy and I are looking forward to a different world, exploring history, nature, yoga, meditation, Ayurvedic practice, music and who knows what else!

Happy Channukah, happy holidays, happy times!

U.S. Thanksgiving

2009-11-27T22:51:00.003-05:00

So we're in Connecticut celebrating with family, and it's pretty cool...

Also checking out Peter Himmelman, an L.A. based musician who hosts a live to web show from his home studio every Tuesday. What a cool idea - self broadcasting through streaming video on the web. And I'm still trying to get some video clips on Youtube. We have a lot to learn!

Which by the way is part of this new song I've been struggling with. I worked some with my buddy Frankie on some lyrics and they are starting to emerge, but boy! It can be so difficult to find the words to express the feelings sometimes! Music is not usually hard, but WORDS!!!!

So the ideas are starting to come, slowly slowly. I'm hoping to have the song done for my next gig, but it's coming fast, so I'm not sure. Anyhow, a few gigs coming up that I'm excited about, and I am learning new skills, new tools, and slowly slowly progressing.

Why is it that we are so connected to our cell phones, pdas, computers, Facebook, email, and all, and have trouble connecting person to person? Turn it all off and look me give me some eyeball, some face time, some full attention, and I will give you the same.

Why is that with global warming, the world is feeling colder?

When the darkness comes, what do we do?

When the darkness comes, I will wait...

When the darkness comes, I will be true...

When the darkness comes, there will be new light.

Like night vision, the shapes will emerge and we will see again.

At the mercy of the mystery
I will be still and wait for the light to emerge again...

~P

Song trapped in my heart

2009-11-10T11:52:00.003-05:00

So I have been struggling to get some new songs written, lots of musical ideas, a few (so far) instrumentals over the past months, but WORDS!! Anyhow, I sat down yesterday and this is what came to me:

I have a song trapped in my heart.
The words sit there, the emotions
Like a lily in a pond just out of reach
I'm trying to touch them and it hurts.

What am I trying to say?
What is the "message"?
What needs to come out?

It's
happy and sad
clear and confused
hopeful and depressed
cynical and optimistic
a dream and a harsh reality.
It is so mixed up
like me.

I have a song in my heart
and I want to sing it
but it sticks in my throat
I croak like a frog.

I suppose a frog's croak is also a song.

A busy week of music!

2009-10-23T17:26:00.002-04:00

Hi all: It's been a full week. Teaching sessions, a gig last Saturday night and another solo appearance last night! I think I call that a full week!

Now there's a bit of a lull, nothing booked so far in November, but three gigs in December, plus my coaching sessions. My Music Workshop has one participant (come on people!) so he is getting private lessons. My hope is the next time I offer this workshop it will attract more people so we can get the group dynamic going! Some interesting developments on this front, and I will keep you posted.

Also did a little bit of video at the Annex Live gig on Saturday, haven't seen the results, but I am hoping I can post a couple of tunes on Youtube, etc. That will be a first for me!

So what's going on? Trying to stay creative, play and compose and finish some new songs - it's been a while. Lots of musical ideas, lyrics are still hanging out in the stratosphere. They will appear in due time. Also continuing to look for ways to earn income at this endeavour, and to save expenses in other ways.

What's going on?

2009-10-12T14:47:00.003-04:00

Happy Canadian Thanksgiving everyone! While it's a bit of a dreary day, it's so nice to have a slow day to hang with family and friends, probably there'll be food involved.

Things are cooking musically, sometimes in unexpected ways. The Music Workshop is progressing, though at the moment it is one person! So if you are reading this, and have been considering joining the workshop, please do! Check the details on my website.

Some nice gigs happening too. Simchat Torah at our synagogue Darchei Noam, was a joy, and our shul band The Nigunatics expanded to include a bass player Jules Vaisberg and the incredible Martin van de Ven on clarinet! Martin plays on my CD, and Beyond the Pale, and and and... what a treat to have him there. I have invited Martin to join me just about any time for any gig!

Coming up The Annex Live this coming Saturday Oct. 17 from 7-10 pm. Richard Keelen, fellow Perth County Conspirator will join me, along with Joey Goldstein on guitar, Shira Gellman on vocals and guitar, and Trevor Fentum on drums. Should be a good one!

Working on a bunch of projects, some band performances, some recording, some coaching, it's starting to get busy, which is a good thing.

Feel free to comment on my posts. I would love to start a conversation so please join in!

~P

It's a new beginning!

2009-09-29T10:51:00.000-04:00

So it's a New Jewish Year, and it just so happens that Mercury goes direct today! (Whew!) It's been a challenging time for me, and I have been confused and worried about my direction. Today I feel much more invigorated and clear, so let me say that my direction is MUSIC! I want to grow my music practice on every level, and even generate more income from music. I have a couple of students that I am coaching, and hope to grow my Music Workshops into something bigger and even more rewarding for students and for me. I realize that "everything takes longer". Anyone who knows me well will recognize that as one of my mantras (another is "things I'd like to say..."), and if I remember my own words, I will be patient and steadfast and keep inching forward. I have some other ideas to pursue as well that may or may not pan out financially. I was speaking to someone yesterday about how my life is good, and my bank account is not so good, and he said "Who's bank account is good?". Are we ever satisfied? Do we ever have enough? Why is it so important to focus on earning money? And how often to we work at earning money at what we love doing? This is my lesson to myself, and I trust the Universe will continue to provide as it always has. Have a good day, week and year! ~P

Friday's post

2009-09-25T14:05:00.000-04:00

Lots of stuff going on. People are signing up for the Music Workshop (thank you!) which is starting Sunday Oct. 4. Please send me a comment if you have interest in this series, it will be a fun learning experience for everyone, including me!

Getting ready for Yom Kippur with family and community - a time of reflection, and as I reflect I feel substantial concern for the state of our world and society, and for our lives here in Toronto, the Heart of the Beast. How is it possible to survive and balance our lives, including the soul and the material world? Anybody know? I'd love to!!!

Things that continue to help me is a little yoga practice in the morning, some minutes of meditation daily, and opportunities to experience nature. Time with Amy and loved ones is also precious, and I want to continue to focus on these things. So the balancing act is about making a living while maintaining this balance.

That's what's going on for me today. Comments?

My first post!

2009-09-22T11:37:00.000-04:00

Welcome to my blog! (Welcome to my world?)

A friend of mine suggested I start a blog to capture thoughts and events as they happen, so I can effectively communicate with the online community. So here is what's going on for me:

After almost 40 years of performing, creating, teaching and sharing music, I am embarking on a new venture to help others grow their music. I have announced the first Music Workshop with Paul Gellman, which is designed to answer the question "What do you want to do with your music?" I have begun coaching others (well, one student so far!), and am enjoying the experience a lot! And my student keeps coming back, so it seems there is value in what I am sharing. So I want to grow this practice, and share whatever knowledge, experience and joy I have with those who play music and want to get better.

I welcome your comments and look forward to starting conversations and growing this community of friends! Thanks!

~Paul
www.paulgellman.com